The Cardinal and Napoleon’s Sister

Most of the visitors wandering through the Borghese Gallery in Rome probably don’t give all that much thought to the fellow who started it all – I certainly didn’t the first time I came. This is a shame, because his is an interesting if mildly unsavoury story. Visitors almost certainly give a bit more thought to a later occupant of the Villa Borghese, because she is hard to miss. But let’s start at the beginning.

Scipione Borghese

Cardinal Scipione Borghese (1577-1633) embodied much that was bad, and some that was good, about the Catholic Church in the early 17th Century (anglophone art historians may call him by the Latin version of his name, “Scipio”). We will start with the bad: among his many, many, official titles, probably the most important was Cardinalis Nepos – “Cardinal-Nephew”.

You read that right. It was so common for Popes to appoint a relative – often a nephew, sometimes an illegitimate son – to high office, that it became an official position. It was assumed that the first priority of any new Pope would be enriching and ennobling his own family, so it would be best to make that a full-time job for another person. And who better to trust that job to than a family member? The English word “nepotism” was coined specifically to describe this practice.

Scipione Borghese
Scipione Borghese, the Cardinal-Nephew, by Bernini, Borghese Gallery, Rome. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge)

Scipione was an actual nephew. His father was called Francesco Caffarelli, but his mother was a Borghese, and her brother, his uncle Camillo Borghese, paid for his education. In 1605 Camillo was elected Pope, taking the name Paul V. He adopted Scipione as his son, quickly appointed him a cardinal (in those days the tiresome process of climbing through the ecclesiastical ranks was optional for people with connections) and made him Papal Secretary.

Paul V
Camillo Borghese, Pope Paul V, by Bernini (Creative Commons Licence; click to enlarge)

Scipione acquired many jobs and titles – in locations which would have made it impossible for him to have been personally present at the same time, but that is not how it worked. If you were, for example, both Abbot of Subiaco and Archbishop of Bologna (as Scipione was), you didn’t have to be in either place. Instead you received the income but stayed in Rome and employed deputies to discharge most of the actual duties. With at least a couple of dozen such offices, Scipione quickly became very wealthy indeed. With wealth came power, and he was able to persuade a few landowners to sell significant estates to him or other members of the family on very favourable terms – by making them “offers they couldn’t refuse”. According to the Wikipedia article he purchased entire towns, and the Borghese ended up owning about a third of the land south of Rome. All the while, his uncle Paul V looked on benignly.

So what was the good part? His legacy of art and architecture. It seems that Scipione may not have wanted the top job for himself – he never seems to have been considered for Pope. He was an enthusiastic builder; inheriting the Palazzo Borghese in Rome from his uncle, he enlarged and modernised it. He also commissioned or modernised several churches. In architectural terms what he is most remembered for are the Borghese Gardens – a large area of former vineyards on the edge of the old city of Rome which he had developed as a park, and the beautiful villa he built there. But what he wanted to do most of all was to collect, patronise and admire art, and the Villa Borghese was – as it still is – the perfect place to house his collection.

Galleria Borghese
Villa Borghese, interior. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 16mm lens (click to enlarge)
Villa Borghese ceiling
Villa Borghese, ceiling painting showing classical themes. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 16mm lens (click to enlarge)

Art, Ancient and Modern

Art collecting and patronage wasn’t particularly new at the start of the 17th Century. Over a hundred years earlier the pattern of the discerning Renaissance prince had been set by Lorenzo de’ Medici (“The Magnificent”) and others like Duke Federigo da Montefeltro and Cardinal Ippolito d’Este. But Scipione seems to have taken it to a new level. In addition to art by his contemporaries, he was an enthusiastic collector of ancient Roman statuary; again this was nothing new, but the taste for collecting ancient art meant that collections were available to be bought, and new finds would be coming on the market from time to time.

Roman antiquities
Roman antiquities in the Borghese Gallery, with faux-Roman “grottesque” decorations behind. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge)
Isis as Ceres
Ancient statue, originally of the goddess Isis, restored and converted to Ceres, the goddess of agriculture and corn, Borghese Gallery. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge)
Perugino Virgin
Virgin and Child by Perugino, Borghese Gallery. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge)
Pinturicchio
Crucifixion with Saints by Pinturicchio, Borghese Gallery. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).
Raphael Deposition
Deposition from The Cross by Raphael, Borghese Gallery. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

Disreputable artists – Bernini and Caravaggio

Two artists who will always be associated with Scipione Borghese are Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Michelangelo Merisi, the latter better known to history as “Caravaggio” after his birthplace in Lombardy. Both behaved reprehensibly in their private lives, but both were geniuses. It seems to me that in their virtues and their vices they represent something about the time and the place – in early 17th-Century Italy emotions were intensely felt and intensely expressed.

Bernini Persephone
Bernini, The Abduction of Persephone (Proserpine) by Hades (Pluto), Borghese Gallery. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 16mm lens (click to enlarge)

Bernini was recognised in childhood as “a future Michelangelo” and he certainly was – his ability to conjure life out of cold marble has probably never been matched. Both Scipione and his uncle commissioned major works from him, including the baldacchino (altar canopy) in St Peters, and the Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona.

St Peters Baldacchino
St Peter’s Cathedral, showing Bernini’s baldacchino. Hasselblad 501 C/M camera, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens, 6x6cm film back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

But some of his unquestioned masterpieces are in the Villa Borghese. After the death of Paul V, the next couple of Popes continued their patronage.

Bernini Aeneas
Bernini: Aeneas, Anchises and Ascanius flee the fall of Troy. This scene from Virgil’s Aeneid was particularly popular in Italian art because the Trojan hero Aeneas, carrying his father and the household gods, escaped the destruction of Troy and in due course went on to found Rome. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 16mm lens (click to enlarge).
Bernini Apollo and Daphne
Bernini: Apollo and Daphne. The scene from Ovid’s Metamorphoses in which the nymph Daphne escapes the god’s advances by turning herself into a laurel tree. Her fingers are becoming leaves, her toes roots, and her skin bark. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 16mm lens (click to enlarge).
Bernini Apollo and Daphne
Another view of Apollo and Daphne. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 18mm lens (click to enlarge).

The darker side of Bernini’s character was shown when he started an affair with a woman called Costanza, the wife of one of his workshop assistants. However in time Costanza also had an affair with Bernini’s younger brother Luigi, who worked in the same studio. When Bernini found out about it he attacked Luigi in a jealous rage, chasing him through the streets of Rome into Santa Maria Maggiore. Bernini then had one of his servants go to Costanza’s house and slash her face several times with a razor. The servant was jailed for the assault, and Costanza was jailed for adultery. Bernini, though, thanks to friends in the highest of places, got away with it completely. After exonerating Bernini, the Pope ordered him to marry a Roman woman called Caterina Tezio with whom he was to have 11 children, which appears to have settled him down a bit.

Bernini David
Bernini: David. The young David gets ready to use his sling. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).
Bernini David
Close-up of David’s face. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge)

The overlapping worlds of art and Papal politics in Rome in the 17th Century were spiteful places. Bernini had plenty of enemies and when in time the Papacy came into the hands of a different faction, they struck. He was falsely accused of incompetence in his design for two bell towers for St Peters, which were starting to crack (subsequent investigations showed that the builder of the foundations was to blame). But he was fined a massive sum and withdrew from public life. An unfinished statue in the Borghese Gallery, titled Truth Unveiled by Time, is a work he undertook to console himself that the truth would come out in the end, as indeed it did.

Bernini Truth Unveiled
Bernini: Truth Unveiled by Time, unfinished sculpture, Borghese Gallery. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 16mm lens (click to enlarge)

If Bernini’s was the life of an artist disfigured by a crime, then Caravaggio’s was a life of crime ennobled by art. Caravaggio’s list of offences would have been as long as one’s proverbial arm, or much longer, unless it had been in very small writing, and on both sides of the page. Yet he was as much of a genius as Bernini, and even more influential. More so than any of his predecessors, he understood how light works, and his use of chiaroscuro (literally “light and dark”) transformed painting. For that reason I feel that every photographer should study him – “photography”, after all, is Greek for “painting with light”.

But if you really want to see where Caravaggio has had a great influence, look at modern cinematography. I am an inveterate watcher of films without sound, over other people’s shoulders in aeroplanes. In those circumstances one tends to notice the visual aspects, and on one such occasion it occurred to me that a film that had received much praise for its cinematography was exemplifying Caravaggio’s style very well, with extreme lighting contrasts adding drama to the plot – whatever that might have been.

Caravaggio St Jerome
Saint Jerome Translating the Bible into Latin, by Caravaggio, Borghese Gallery. The intense dark backgrounds of Caravaggio’s paintings, plus his glossy oil paints, made it very hard to photograph these without picking up reflections from the strong lighting in the gallery. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

When the young Caravaggio arrived in Rome – characteristically he was on the run from the authorities in Milan after wounding a police officer – he quickly came to Scipione Borghese’s attention. A couple of his early works are in the gallery, and the story of their acquisition gives us some insight into Scipione’s modus operandi. Caravaggio had been working in the studio of a man called Giuseppe Cesari, and these paintings were in Cesari’s collection. Scipione made Cesari an insultingly low offer for them, which Cesari refused. He should have realised that he was being made an offer he couldn’t refuse, because Scipione then arranged to have him arrested on trumped-up charges, and then simply appropriated the entire collection, including the two Caravaggios.

Caravaggio Sick Bacchus
Caravaggio, self-portrait as “Sick Bacchus”. This youthful work was one of those “acquired” from Cesari’s collection by underhand means. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge)

The government of the Papal States was meticulous in its record-keeping, and Caravaggio’s police interviews fill many pages. A man of fiery temper, he frequented low inns and brothels, associated with criminals and prostitutes, and was frequently arrested for brawling in the street. To make matters worse, he claimed that his status as painter to various noblemen made him a gentleman and gave him the right to wear a sword. This was not actually true, and got him arrested several times for carrying a weapon illegally. Inevitably he ended up using that sword (the quarrel was over a prostitute called Fillide Melandroni who had modelled for him) and this time he ended up on a murder charge that even his influential patrons could not get him off. He was sentenced to death by decapitation, and fled Rome with that hanging over him. It can be no coincidence that many of Caravaggio’s subsequent paintings featured severed heads – Holofernes, Goliath, John the Baptist etc – and that in some cases those severed heads were self-portraits.

Caravaggio David and Goliath
Caravaggio, David and Goliath, with Goliath being a self-portrait, Borghese Gallery. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

To spend more time on Caravaggio’s many misadventures would take this article off in the wrong direction, so let it suffice for now to say that eventually he was able to secure the promise of a pardon from – who else? – Cardinal Scipione Borghese, and was on his way back to Rome when he died, in slightly mysterious circumstances, but probably of nothing more sinister than a fever.

Caravaggio may hold the record among great artists for the number of his paintings that were rejected. Typically he would receive a commission from a wealthy art lover for a painting of a particular subject – The Virgin and Child, the Conversion of Saint Paul, whatever – and would produce something marvellously realistic, with models who were beggars, thieves or prostitutes. The authorities in the church or institution in which the painting was to be hung would then reject it in horror. Dirty real people were not what they wanted their congregations to see. Still, there was always Cardinal Scipione Borghese to resolve the embarrassing situation by buying the unwanted picture – at a discount, of course.

Caravaggio Maddona dei Palafrenieri
Caravaggio, Madonna and Christ with St Anne, Borghese Gallery. The Madonna is helping the infant Christ crush the head of a snake, watched by his grandmother. This painting was commissioned by the confraternity of Papal Grooms for their chapel in St Peter’s, but the church authorities hated it, not just for its unconventional theme, but because the model for the Madonna was Maddalena Antonietti, a prostitute, professional artists’ model and sometime mistress of Caravaggio’s. When it was rejected, Scipione Borghese was happy to add it to his collection. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

Scandals

So we know that Scipione, in addition to having an eye for great art, didn’t mind associating with some of the seamier elements in society. He wouldn’t be the last wealthy and powerful person to enjoy that sort of thing. But there were other rumours too. Some see a strong homoerotic element in his choices of art, such as the Hermaphrodite, and some of the pictures painted for him by Caravaggio. I have even seen a description of Apollo and Daphne which suggests that Daphne’s transformation was a veiled reference to changing sex (I have to say that I didn’t see it myself).

Hermaphrodite
The Hermaphrodite, Borghese Gallery. This is a Roman copy of a classic Greek statue of a person with a body that looks female in every respect except for its male genitalia. There is a version of this in the Palazzo Massimo Alle Terme where the male parts are clearly visible, but here in the Borghese Gallery the management has rather coyly positioned it so you can’t see them. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 16mm lens (click to enlarge).

But as is often the case in Italy, the best contemporary sources of rumour and gossip are the diplomatic and espionage reports which went back to other Italian states. According to these, Scipione had several homosexual affairs, and arranged for his lovers to be appointed to church offices – even to be made cardinals. There is also a shocking story about a young man who was murdered by Scipione’s servants after leaving the Cardinal’s bed.

Caravaggio John the Baptist
Caravaggio, John the Baptist, Borghese Gallery. It is possible that Caravaggio painted this rather louche-looking boy as an offering to Scipione to persuade the cardinal to pardon him. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

Scipione died in 1633, aged 56, and is buried in the Borghese Chapel in the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. The position of “Cardinal-Nephew” was abolished in 1692; after the Council of Trent and the Counter-Reformation, being that blatant about the material benefits of Papal office was presumably felt to be in poor taste.

Pauline Bonaparte

The Borghese family had come a long way from their middle-class origins in Siena, and Scipione had done his job as Cardinal-Nephew very well. He was an astute investor and the family’s income from their enormous property holdings meant that they would no longer be dependent on playing the risky game of Papal patronage for access to wealth and power. What is more, marriages with ancient Roman aristocratic families like the Orsini and the Aldobrandini meant they acquired those families’ fortunes as well as their princely titles.

Once such prince, Camillo Borghese, enlisted in the Napoleonic army and became a general. In 1803 he married Napoleon’s sister, Pauline Bonaparte.

Pauline had an interesting life; both her original marriage to the French General Leclerc and, after his death, to Camillo Borghese, were entered into at her brother’s direction. She accompanied Leclerc to Saint-Domingue in the West Indies (modern Haiti) where he recaptured the island after a slave rebellion, and became its Governor-General. After his death she returned to France and was then married off to Camillo in the hope of improving relations between the Romans and their French rulers (it didn’t work).

Perhaps because these were arranged marriages, it seems that Pauline felt under no obligation to remain faithful to either husband, and she acquired a reputation for promiscuity which she seems to have enjoyed. When Camillo arranged for the leading Italian sculptor of the day, Antonio Canova, to create a statue of her as the virgin huntress goddess Diana, she is said to have insisted on being portrayed as Venus because no-one would believe she was a virgin.

Canova Pauline Bonaparte
Canova, Pauline Bonaparte as Venus Victrix, holding the apple that she won when the shepherd Paris decided that she was the most beautiful goddess, Borghese Gallery. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

Since Pauline’s naked body in the statue is just a standard idealised classical nude, it is of course perfectly possible that she only posed for the sculpture of her head and face, and that Canova finished it without using her as the model. But Pauline would not want to ruin a good story any more than the rest of us would, and scandalised Roman society by insisting that she had indeed posed nude. When a shocked Roman matron asked how she could possibly have done so, Pauline replied that it had not been difficult because she had ensured that there was a stove in the studio to keep her warm.

Canova Pauline Bonaparte
Pauline from another angle. Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

Even though Napoleon had treated her as diplomatic currency, in the end she was more loyal to him than any of their other siblings. When he was deposed and exiled to Elba she liquidated all her own assets and moved to Elba to be near him and to use the money to improve his living conditions. After Waterloo and his final exile to St Helena, she moved back to Rome and lived out the remainder of her brief but eventful life under Papal protection.

Further Reading

I am not aware of a biography in English of Scipione Borghese (please correct me in the comments if you are). He and the rest of his family are mentioned in John Julius Norwich’s The Popes. A recent biography of Caravaggio is Caravaggio, A Life Sacred and Profane by the English art critic and TV personality Andrew Graham-Dixon, which inevitably discusses Scipione.

Caravaggio by Andrew Graham-Dixon

Christopher Hibbert’s Rome (I have the luxurious 1997 Folio Society edition) builds a whole chapter around the life of Bernini, although he omits any reference to the Costanza incident.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme in Rome

In 2019 I wrote a post called The Garden of Livia Drusilla in which I described a visit to the Museum of Palazzo Massimo alle Terme in Rome. It is a museum that we think is well worth one’s time. It isn’t right at the top of the charts like the Capitoline Museum, the Borghese Gallery or the Villa Farnesina, so it is usually not too crowded, and it is close to Termini station, thus easy to get to. The palazzo is a large 19th-Century building built on the pattern of a 16th-Century Renaissance palace, and the terme from which the palazzo gets its name are the Baths of Diocletian, close nearby.

Altar
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme: Altar to Mars and Venus. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

Everything in the Palazzo Massimo is from ancient Rome. That 2019 article put particular emphasis on the amazing frescoes recovered from the villa of the Empress Livia, wife of Augustus (and villainess of Robert Graves’s novel I Claudius). To me those frescoes are still the main reason to visit, but in hindsight I was a bit jaded in my attitude to the rest of the museum, partly because of what one might call “gallery fatigue” (a common affliction among visitors to Rome) and also because the place was overrun with bored schoolchildren.

Recently we paid a return visit and I found myself in a much more receptive mood. It was August and all the kids were at the beach. And museums and galleries are mostly air-conditioned; an encouragement to cultural virtue in hot weather if ever there was one. Instead of reflecting on how all the marble busts start to look the same after a while, this time we noticed the differences between the styles of different eras, and between realistic busts done from life compared with mass-produced figures of emperors and empresses.

Portrait of a Woman
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme: portrait of an elderly lady, possibly for a funerary monument, but surely done from life, given the realistic features. Fujifilm X-Pro3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

It was also interesting to see the changes in fashion. It is curious and – to the history nerd – somewhat irritating that people seem to think the ancient Romans never changed the way they looked. In art and cinema, Roman clothing, armour, weapons and so forth look the same whatever the period. From the oath of the Horatii in pre-Republican days, through to the Punic Wars, the Caesars and the fall of the empire in the 5th Century AD, everyone dresses like Augustus and Livia, senators wear togas and the soldiers wear helmets and armour like those on Trajan’s column. But this is a period of six or seven hundred years – it is as if we in the 21st Century were all still wearing Elizabethan ruffs around our necks, and our military were wearing steel breastplates and carrying pikes.

Principessa
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme: bust described as “portrait of a Julio-Claudian princess”, showing a hairstyle that must have been many hours in the making. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).
Plotina
Portrait of the Empress Plotina, wife of the Emperor Trajan. She was an adherent of the Epicurean school of philosophy, and is credited with many of the good policies of Trajan’s reign. Having no children, she persuaded Trajan to adopt Hadrian as his heir. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

A good museum, with informative labels on the exhibits, can go a long way to dispel the impression that Rome never changed. Given that most of the realistic statues in the museum are busts, the most obvious indicators of changing fashions are hairstyles, and the presence or absence of beards for men.

Head of a Man
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme: Head of a Man. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

The Nemi Ships

One very impressive section contains remarkably preserved bronze fittings from the “Nemi Ships”. Nemi is a small volcanic lake southeast of Rome, sacred in antiquity, where the Emperor Caligula had two large and luxurious ships built. They seem to have been partly for religious ceremonies but also, like modern superyachts, they were symbols of great wealth and power. After Caligula’s assassination the ships were deliberately overloaded with rocks and sunk, presumably on the orders of Claudius. They were recovered in the 1930s after the Italian Navy temporarily drained the lake, and housed in a purpose-built museum. Alas they were destroyed by fire in 1944 (either as a result of Allied artillery or German sabotage; opinions vary). Fortunately several of the bronze pieces survived and are now housed in the Palazzo Massimo.

Nemi Ships
Decorated post from the side railing of one of the Nemi ships. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).
Nemi ship protome
Bronze “protome” (sculpted head) of a lion, holding a mooring ring, from the Nemi ships. The exhibits were behind thick glass and I was unable to take many pictures without reflections, so this picture is from Wikimedia Commons (click to enlarge).

The relics of the Nemi ships are in amazing condition and show extraordinary workmanship, as you might expect when Caligula was the customer. No doubt the penalty clauses in the contract were severe.

The Frescoes and Mosaics

For us, the main attractions of the museum are the frescoes and mosaics, which I covered in my first post. These are wall and floor decorations recovered from several ancient villas in and around Rome, and in some cases displayed in spaces that are the same size as the original rooms. It does give you a bit of an idea of what it would have been like to be in one of those brightly-coloured rooms.

Palazzo Massimo Frescoes
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme: a frescoed room from the “Transtiberina” villa, found in the gardens of the modern Villa Farnesina when the Tiber embankments were being built. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 16mm lens (click to enlarge).

I don’t propose to duplicate material from that earlier post, especially the frescoes from Livia’s villa. But here are some additional pictures. The dark frescoes are apparently from a dining room, where the black colouring would not show smoke stains from the fires used to warm the food.

Dining room fresco
Fresco from a dining room. The description rather coyly says that the pictures are illustrations of popular stories, but looking at them, one would love to know more. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).
Mosaic of cat and ducks
Mosaic of a cat killing a bird, and a pair of ducks. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).
Caryatids
Caryatids supporting columns beyond which are rural scenes alternating with what look like dramatic masks. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 16mm lens (click to enlarge).
Caryatid
A caryatid in close-up. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

Greek stuff

It is well-known that the ancient Romans looked up to the Greeks culturally, and had a bit of an inferiority complex about them, even after having incorporated them into the empire. After all, it was from Magna Graecia (the Greek colonies in southern Italy and Sicily) that the Romans, when still a bunch of cattle thieves in their huts by the Tiber, were first exposed to advanced art and philosophy. Conventionally they also adopted the Greek pantheon as well, but I suppose we will never know the extent to which the Olympian gods matched the already-existing local Latin deities (my guess is, probably a lot: there’s nothing particularly novel in having a God of War, a Goddess of Love and so on).

Greek statues
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme: Greek (or Greek-inspired) statues. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).
Antinous
Antinous. The Emperor Hadrian took Philhellenism to extremes, having a Greek youth called Antinous as his lover. After Antinous mysteriously drowned in the Nile, Hadrian had him deified. Here he is is pictured as Sylvanus, god of the woods. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

Many of the more expensive bronze statues found in Italy are the product of Greek workshops, and we know that because some of the most spectacular survivals have been dredged up from the wrecks of the ships on which they were being imported.

Presumably most of the cheaper marble statues copied from Greek originals came from local Italian workshops, including the many copies of the diskobòlos (discus thrower), originally in bronze by the sculptor Myron in around 450 BC. Given the number of copies that have been found, it was obviously a top seller, which is fortunate as the original is lost. Like modern copies of Michelangelo’s David, the diskobòloi came in varying sizes and qualities.

Diskobòlos
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme: A Roman copy of the Greek “diskobòlos” statue. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

The bronze statues were made using the “lost wax” technique, where the original was sculpted in wax, then encased in clay. The clay was heated, the wax melted and drained out, and the resulting clay mould could be used to cast the final bronze.

There are two extraordinary examples of such bronze statues in the Palazzo Massimo, both apparently of Greek manufacture. Both were excavated on the slopes of Rome’s Quirinal Hill in 1885, and it is thought that they would have originally decorated the nearby Baths of Constantine. They appeared to have been deliberately buried to safeguard them, perhaps during the Gothic sack of Rome in 410 AD. Burying them turns out to have been a good idea – going undiscovered for so long almost certainly preserved them, because in the Middle Ages and even the Renaissance, Popes tended to order rediscovered ancient bronze statues to be melted down for re-use in religious art or even cannon.

We are used to seeing such bronze statues with empty eyes, but this is misleading. The originals had realistic-looking eyes made from coloured stone.

The first statue is known by art historians as the “Hellenistic Prince”, and it is not known who it is intended to be. It might be an actual ruler of one of the Hellenistic kingdoms (that is, the states founded by the generals of Alexander the Great after Alexander’s death). Or it might be a depiction of a Roman emperor, but so highly idealised that the identity of the subject eludes us. Either way, there is a great deal of character in the depiction.

Hellenistic Prince
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme: the so-called “Hellenistic Prince”. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

But in terms of sheer humanity that speaks to us across the centuries, the Hellenistic Prince comes a long way second to the “Resting Boxer”.

Resting Boxer
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, the “Resting Boxer”. Fujifilm X-Pro3 Camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

The boxer is seated after a fight, bleeding from wounds (picked out in copper) and clearly exhausted. He bears the scars of many bouts, one of which broke his nose, and others which left him with cauliflower ears.

The “Resting Boxer”. When we were there the statue was roped off so I could not get a full-length picture. This one is from Wikimedia Commons (click to enlarge).

This would have been a great work in any era, but – for it was probably made between 350 and 50 BC – it is very special to see something that is so very old yet has such emotional force for us today. I found myself humming The Boxer by Paul Simon.

“In the clearing stands a boxer and a fighter by his trade, and he carries the reminders of every glove that laid him down or cut him till he cried out in his anger and his shame, ‘I am leaving, I am leaving,’ but the fighter still remains.”

A statue from 350 BC and a song from 1969 AD, and the same emotional reaction.

People talk and write a lot of nonsense about art, and what it is for. My view is simple, and not particularly fashionable. When I see a work like this, or one of the mosaics in Monreale, or I listen to a piece of music by Monteverdi, I am experiencing an emotional response which to varying degrees is not unlike what someone long dead might have felt under the same circumstances.

Great art reminds you what it is to be human.

The Frescoes of Fra Angelico in San Marco, Florence

Fra Angelico was a humble monk who happened to be a great artist. In this post we look at his works in the Monastery of San Marco in Florence – this will be a short piece to complement my recent longer post on the Signorelli frescoes in the duomo of Orvieto in which I briefly introduced Fra Angelico.

To recap, the artist and Dominican friar known to his contemporaries as Fra Giovanni da Fiesole, to modern Italians as Il Beato Angelico and to Anglophone art historians as “Fra Angelico” was a talented artist of great piety and personal simplicity. In terms of the periods we ascribe to art history, he straddled late-medieval “International Gothic” and the Renaissance, and painted in both styles as the occasion demanded.

When Fra Angelico was executing commissions for important and wealthy clients, he painted in a formal style, and used the most brilliant and expensive colours. We saw an example of that in my photograph of the two ceiling panels which were all he completed in the Cappella Nuova in the Orvieto Duomo. I will reproduce the photograph again here to save you going to look for it.

Fra Angelico Orvieto
The Fra Angelico panels in the ceiling of the Cappella Nuova in Orvieto, an example of his formal style. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

But there is another aspect to his painting, simpler in style, reflecting his own subject choices, and giving us a bit of an insight into the character of someone who Vasari described, a hundred years later, as not only rarely talented, but humble and modest (in contrast with some of Vasari’s other subjects). To see this side of Fra Angelico, you must visit the monastery of San Marco in Florence (nowadays officially the “Museum of San Marco” – you can buy tickets online at its website).

The Monastery of San Marco

Map of Florence
Map of Florence showing the location of the Monastery of San Marco at the top right (click to open in Google Maps).

There had been a monastery, or a series of monasteries, in this location on the northern side of the city for a least a couple of hundred years when, in the 1430s, the previous order was evicted for their laxity. The property was made over to a group of Dominicans from nearby Fiesole, which included Fra Angelico. But the buildings were in poor condition and the new proprietors had to live in makeshift accommodation at first.

San Marco was in the part of Florence known as the “Medici quarter” and it was the head of that wealthy family and the de facto ruler of Florence, Cosimo de’ Medici, who decided to finance the rebuilding of the monastery in contemporary Renaissance style. And at some point it was decided that Fra Angelico and his assistant, Benozzo Gozzoli, would paint frescoes in various communal areas of the monastery and also in the monks’ cells.

Fra Angelico Judas
Fresco in San Marco, Judas kisses Christ by Fra Angelico. Hasselblad 501 C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50C digital back (click to enlarge).

Probably the most famous of these is his Annunciation, which is a very simple scene compared to what he would probably have painted had he been commissioned to do something for a great cathedral.

Fra Angelico Annunciation
Fresco in San Marco, Annunciation by Fra Angelico. Hasselblad 501 C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50C digital back (click to enlarge).

No doubt in gratitude for his generosity in financing the reconstruction of the monastery, Cosimo de’ Medici was granted a cell there, as a peaceful retreat from the pressures of running Florence while pretending to be just a normal citizen. It is about twice the size of the rest of the cells, but just as austere inside. For this, Fra Angelico put in a special effort. His Adoration of the Magi is very beautful – there is no gorgeous and complex background such as might be seen a similar work by Perugino, but the figures are elegant and richly dressed. Below that is a space for a little altar with an image of Christ.

Fra Angelico Adoration
Fresco in Cosimo de’ Medici’s cell in San Marco, Adoration of the Magi. Hasselblad 501 C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50C digital back, two images merged in Photoshop (click to enlarge).

It is a special experience to visit Cosimo’s cell and imagining him there in silent contemplation, or perhaps reading letters brought to him from Popes and princes.

But despite the beauties of the Annunciation and Adoration of the Magi, the impression that stayed with me was that of a naive, almost cartoon-like literalness in his depiction of gospel scenes. In this Nativity the ox and the ass don’t quite take centre stage, but they certainly do not want to be just minor characters.

Fra Angelico Nativity
Fresco in San Marco, Nativity by Fra Angelico. Hasselblad 501 C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50C digital back (click to enlarge).

In this scene of the women at Golgotha on Easter Sunday, they are rather theatrically peering into the empty sarcophagus, while an angel points upward as if to say “he went that-a-way”.

Fra Angelico Resurrection
Fresco in San Marco, Resurrection by Fra Angelico. Hasselblad 501 C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50C digital back (click to enlarge).

And I will finish with my favourite, a picture of the medieval tradition of The Harrowing of Hell, according to which Jesus descended into Hell, bashed up a few devils and released various worthy souls – prophets who had had to wait until the resurrection before being admitted to heaven. I can recognise John the Baptist, and I think the chap with the forked beard is probably Moses, but I can’t place the others. Perhaps the one grasping Jesus’s hand is Isaiah.

Fra Angelico Harrowing of Hell
Fresco in San Marco, The Harrowing of Hell by Fra Angelico. Note the flattened devil. Hasselblad 501 C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50C digital back (click to enlarge).

But the best parts are the devil hiding round a corner to the left, and the one who has been squashed flat when Christ smashed the door down. It makes me think of the coyote in the Bugs Bunny cartoons.

The End of the World – The Duomo and Signorelli Frescoes in Orvieto

In a pretty location in Umbria you may visit an artistic masterpiece of the Renaissance: Signorelli’s frescoes in the cathedral of Orvieto.

Orvieto is a town in western Umbria with a spectacular situation – the area abounds in outcrops of “tufa” – rock formed from volcanic ash, around which the softer rock has eroded away. This makes such sites good choices for defensibility, and it seems that there has been a settlement here from before Etruscan times. The name itself is said to derive from the Latin Urbs Vetus, meaning “the old city”.

Orvieto
Orvieto from the south-west, with the façade of the duomo at the town’s highest point to the right. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Rodenstock Sironar-N 180mm lens, Horseman 6x12cm rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

Although in the region of Umbria now, Orvieto is located west of the Tiber River and so it would not have been part of the ancient territory of the Umbri, nor, for the same reason, would it have been part of the ancient Roman province of Umbria. The modern region of Umbria, with several other regions, was created when the Papal territories were annexed by the Kingdom of Piedmont during the unification of Italy, and its modern area only approximates that of its ancient one. So Orvieto doesn’t feel particularly Umbrian – the landscape and architecture have more in common with northern Lazio towns like Montefiascone and Caprarola.

Map showing the location of Orvieto, between Rome and Florence (click to open in Google Maps).

As the map shows, Orvieto is approximately halfway between Rome and Florence, and on both the main north-south motorway and the high-speed railway line. This means it is well-placed to receive a lot of tourists, which it does – but there has to be a reason for them to want to come. That reason is an artistic and architectural heritage that seems out of proportion to a place of such modest size. But some important things have happened here. Thomas Aquinas lectured at the university, and from the mid-1200s Orvieto was one of the cities to which Popes removed themselves when conflicts in Rome became too dangerous.

Orvieto
Orvieto, looking west from the “Torre del Moro”. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Fujinon-W 125mm lens, Horseman 6x12cm rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).
Orvieto
Orvieto, Piazza del Duomo. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Nikon Nikkor-W 150mm lens, Horseman 6x12cm rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

These days the attraction of Orvieto is largely based on the extraordinary duomo, or cathedral. While the duomo dominates the town when seen from a distance, you don’t actually see it as you walk along the narrow streets from the funicular which brings visitors up from the railway station and the car park. Then you suddenly turn a corner and there it is – and it is breathtaking.

Next to the duomo is an impressive medieval building – the Papal Palace, used as a residence when the Pope was in town. These days it houses the tourist office where you buy your ticket to visit the duomo.

The Duomo

Towards the end of the 13th Century, the town authorities decided to build themselves a magnificent church, to be dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, and built of alternating layers of white and black stone, like a giant liquorice allsort – a style common in Tuscan cities like Siena and Pistoia. Progress was a bit slow; the town kept running short of money, and every now and then plague and war interrupted things. In fact it took about three hundred years, so it started in the Romanesque style, most of it was Gothic, and there were some Renaissance bits towards the end.

Orvieto Duomo
Orvieto Duomo showing the gothic façade and the black and white stripes. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Fujinon-W 125mm lens, 4×5-inch sheet film back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film, rising front to correct perspective (click to enlarge).

Apparently one of the more serious problems first encountered was that the structure didn’t appear to be strong enough to carry its own weight – a Sienese architect was brought in who added buttresses and other features based on the duomo at Siena.

Orvieto Duomo
Orvieto Duomo, exterior detail. Hasselblad 501C/M camera, Zeiss Sonnar CF 150mm lens, 6x6cm rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

And it was that Sienese architect – a chap called Maitani – who designed the first of the cathedral’s masterpieces – the magnificent Gothic façade.

The façade is the most prominent architectural feature in Orvieto and it can be seen clearly in the distant view of the town in the first photograph above. Sometimes, when the setting sun hits its golden mosaics, it shines like a beacon far into the distance. The mosaics date from the late 14th Century, but most were replaced and redesigned in the 15th, 18th and 19th Centuries.

Orvieto Duomo
Orvieto Duomo, façade mosaic, Crowning of the Virgin. This section is a copy made in 1842 of a damaged medieval original. By the standards of 19th-Century restorations, they seem to have done a pretty faithful job, stylistically. Some of the other restorations are less impressive. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF100-200mm lens, perspective correction in software (click to enlarge).
Orvieto Duomo
Orvieto Duomo, façade mosaic, Assumption of the Virgin. The central section is an original from 1366. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF100-200mm lens (click to enlarge).

At the base of the four piers of the façade are a series of bas-reliefs depicting stories from the old testament, and a Last Judgement with gruesome-looking devils carrying away the souls of the damned. It is thought that some of the work was by Maitani himself, but that three or four other master sculptors must have worked on it. My favourite part of it is a “Jesse Tree” which was a favourite motif in Christian iconography, showing various ancestors of Christ, starting with Jesse, the father of King David, in the branches of a tree. This has been compared to a medieval manuscript illumination, but carved in marble – I would certainly agree with that description.

Orvieto Duomo
Orvieto Duomo, façade mosaic “Jesse Tree” carving. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

Around the door you will see some of the most extraordinarily delicate carving, of marble inlaid with beautiful mosaics. This sort of portal carving is very common in Gothic cathedrals, but seldom is it as elegant as this.

Orvieto Duomo
Orvieto Duomo, the carvings around the door. Contax G1 35mm rangefinder camera, Zeiss Planar 45mm lens (click to enlarge).

The Interior and the Cappella Nuova

Once inside the “liquorice allsort” one tends to be struck by the comparative simplicity. I like this, as it is probably close to the original impression one would have had in the Middle Ages. Some writers seem to find it too stark a contrast to the glories of the façade, and if you agree with them, then be patient, because the best is yet to come.

Orvieto Duomo
Orvieto Duomo, the interior. Apparently the clerestory walls (above the arches) were originally just in white stone, but were repainted in black and white stripes to match the rest of the building. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

And the best – which is what you have come to see – is one of the most memorable works of the 15th-16th Centuries, which is saying something. On one side of the nave is a chapel referred to variously as the Chapel of the Madonna of San Brizio or simply the Cappella Nuova, or “New Chapel”. “New”, in this case means that it was commissioned in 1408, a bit over a hundred years after work on the cathedral commenced, but consideration about how to decorate it did not begin until the mid-1400s. Perhaps it was a question of money, because that certainly turned out to be a constraint in the decades to come.

In 1446 negotiations were started to secure the services of one of the most famous artists of the day, the Dominican monk born Guido di Pietro, later called Fra Giovanni da Fiesole, but known to anglophone art history as Fra Angelico (NB: not Frangelico – that is a hazelnut-flavoured liqueur). In Italy he is usually called Il Beato Angelico, the blessed Angelico. The title eventually became official in 1982 when Pope John Paul II formally beatified him. I have some photographs of his frescoes from the monastery of San Marco in Florence, which I will make the subject of another post one day. (edit: here is that post.)

In 1447 the cathedral authorities signed a contract with Fra Angelico, and he did spend one summer in Orvieto, preparing designs and executing a couple of ceiling panels – in which he was assisted by the young Benozzo Gozzoli. A combination of papal demands on Fra Angelico’s time and possibly the difficulty of finding the money to pay him meant that he did not return, although apparently Gozzoli stayed on and continued the work for a while.

Fra Angelico died in 1455, and for the rest of the 15th Century no real work was done on the chapel, although the scaffolding remained in place. Orvieto itself went through some hard times with a period of civil disorder caused by the usual conflicts between rival wealthy families, which cannot have helped with the civic revenues.

Every now and then as finances permitted, attempts were made to find a painter to carry on the work, including the great Perugino, who characteristically kept the Orvietans hanging for a decade or so before finally turning them down. At that point, the choice fell on Luca Signorelli.

Signorelli came from the town of Cortona on the border of Tuscany and Umbria. In 1499 he was around 50 years old and presumably at the height of his powers. He had contributed to the decoration of the Sistine Chapel in Rome, and also to the famous paintings in the monastery of Monte Oliveto Maggiore near Siena, but it was this work in Orvieto that established his reputation in art history. As part of the contract he undertook to complete those parts of the chapel for which Fra Angelico had left drawings, but these were only for the rest of the ceiling panels. Since Fra Angelico’s work featured a Christ in Judgement, Signorelli proposed to continue the theme of the Apocalypse and Last Judgement, in keeping with Fra Angelico’s intent, but also picking up the eschatological tone of the carvings on the cathedral façade.

I have seen a tourist website which states that the Orvieto Last Judgement is based on that of Michelangelo in the Sistine Chapel. This is completely the wrong way round! Signorelli was first, and Michelangelo came after. Any similarities – which there are – are the result of Michelangelo drawing inspiration from Signorelli, and not vice versa.

The Frescoes

Let’s start with the ceiling, which is the only place you can see any work by Fra Angelico. These are the two panels featuring Christ in Judgement and The Prophets.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
The Cappella Nuova, ceiling panels by Fra Angelico – The Prophets (centre) and Christ in Judgement (left) Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).
Orvieto Cappella Nuova
The Cappella Nuova, all ceiling panels, both Fra Angelico and Signorelli. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

The rest is all by Signorelli. The upper walls contain several scenes, drawn from the biblical account of the apocalypse and medieval works. In (I think) chronological order, they are The Rule of the Antichrist, The Apocalypse, The Resurrection of the Flesh, The Damned in Hell and The Elect in Paradise. You may find them given slightly different names in different sources.

The Rule of the Antichrist

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Orvieto, Cappella Nuova. The Rule of the Antichrist. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

The central figure in this panel is the false Christ preaching. He is rather shockingly depicted as similar to the real one, but with the devil whispering in his ear. Our old friend the art historian Vasari claimed to have identified real people in the crowd around him, including the young Raphael as the well-dressed long-haired chap in red tights with his hands on his hips. However some modern sources cast doubt on this.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, detail from The Rule of the Antichrist, with a possible portrait of the young Raphael in the red tights. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF100-200mm lens (click to enlarge).

It had not occurred to me until I started writing this article, but this fresco was painted very shortly after the Dominican friar Girolamo Savonarola was convicted of heresy and executed in Florence. Savonarola preached a Taliban-like message of radical asceticism, and for a while was the effective ruler of Florence, declaring it to be the new Jerusalem and the world centre of Christianity. Savonarola was famous for his “bonfires of the vanities”, in which rich Florentines offered their treasures for destruction, and sure enough, on the ground in front of the Antichrist is a pile of such offerings. It seems very probable that people would have made the connection, and moreover that the church authorities would have wanted them to. Then I noticed that behind the Antichrist Signorelli has depicted a group of disputing clerics, prominent among whom are several in the black and white Dominican habit that Savonarola would have worn. I wonder if that was part of the message as well? Not that Savonarola had been the actual Antichrist, but that this sort of puritanism was dangerous heresy.

Elsewhere in the scene, bad stuff is happening all over the place. People are being persecuted and executed for not following the Antichrist. and in the central background the Antichrist is performing bogus miracles. At the top left is the end of this particular part of the story, where the Antichrist has dared to attempt to ascend into heaven, but is quickly dispatched by the Archangel Michael. A group of people below, presumably the Antichrist’s followers, are killed in the collateral damage.

At the lower left stand two men dressed in black, solemnly observing the scene. These are Signorelli himself and Fra Angelico. Signorelli cannot have met his predecessor, and I do not know on what the likeness was based, but it was a generous gesture on Signorelli’s part to include him.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, self-portrait of Signorelli (in front), and portrait of Fra Angelico behind. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF100-200mm lens (click to enlarge).

In this as in the other main scenes, you will notice a clever artistic trick by Signorelli – at the bottom of each scene some of the characters look as if they are actually standing on ledges that are part of the structure of the cathedral. It is quite a skilful bit of false perspective, given that you are looking at it all from below. It is not the only part of the chapel where he plays these sorts of games.

The Apocalypse

This scene is painted over the archway that divides the chapel from the nave of the duomo. On the right, in the foreground the Old Testament King David and a Sibyl are predicting the end of the world. Behind them, someone is escaping from a collapsing building, and people are being led to execution. In the distance, a city is in ruins and ships are borne high on huge waves.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, The Apocalypse. King David and the Sibyl prophesy the end of the world. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

On the left, flying devils are laying waste to the earth with fiery breath, while people below flee in panic.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, The Apocalypse. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

As elsewhere, the foremost figures – David and the Sybil on the right, the terrified refugees on the left, have been painted as if they have come out of the paintings and are standing on the actual architecture of the cathedral.

The Resurrection of the Flesh

In this scene the Last Trumpet is sounded, and the dead emerge from the earth – some already restored to flesh, others still as skeletons. I’m not sure why they did not all come back in complete form straight away.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, The Resurrection of the Flesh. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

Signorelli specialised in nude figures, in particular powerfully-muscled males, at a time when this was still a fairly novel thing in a sacred setting (as we have seen, Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel frescoes came later). I’m not aware of whether the cathedral authorities thought he was being too daring.

The Damned in Hell

Signorelli definitely went to town on this scene. At the top right three armed archangels prevent any escape, while devils seize the damned souls and bear them into the fiery gate of hell at the lower left. There is a heaving mass of bodies below, but it is easy to distinguish the figures from each other – assisted, as one source points out, by the fact that Signorelli gives the devils grotesquely-coloured skin.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, The Damned in Hell. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

There is apparently a tradition that the naked woman being carried off on the back of a flying devil is a depiction of a former girlfriend of Signorelli’s who had jilted him. This would make it an early example of revenge porn, but I have not seen this in any serious discussion of the frescoes so it can probably be discounted.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, detail from The Damned in Hell, probably not Signorelli’s ex-girlfriend. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF100-200mm lens (click to enlarge).

The Elect in Paradise

The final large scene is a complete contrast to The Damned in Hell – obviously, because it is The Elect in Paradise. The raised dead stand around – most now decorously draped – while angels welcome them with crowns. More angels provide entertainment in the form of a chamber orchestra.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, The Elect in Paradise. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

The Zoccoli

All of the main pictures start about two and a half metres above floor level. The walls below that are painted to look like pedestals (Zoccoli in Italian), which gave Signorelli the opportunity for some more trompe l’oeil showing off. As we have already seen, he painted an apparent flat surface on top of the Zoccoli, which allowed some of the action to appear to spill forward out of the pictures. The Zoccoli are ornately decorated in the “grotesque” style, which in this context does not mean ugly but rather in a style based on the art seen in the ancient Roman ruins that were starting to be excavated. The classical theme is continued by the fact that in the centre of each Zoccolo there is a portrait, not of some saint or elder of the Church, but a poet.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, Dante surrounded by faux bas-reliefs with illustrations from Purgatorio. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

By tradition these poets are Homer, Empedocles, Lucan, Horace, Ovid, Virgil and Dante, although some of these are now disputed. Dante is obvious, so no argument there. Ovid is surrounded by illustrations from his Metamorphoses, and Virgil with illustrations from his Georgics and Aeneid.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, Ovid. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).
Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, Virgil (as poet). Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

In medieval legend, the ancient poet Virgil acquired a second career as a magician and prophet. He therefore appears twice here, once in each persona – at least the wild-haired fellow below is thought to be him.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nuova, Virgil (as prophet). Fujifilm X-Pro 3 camera, 35mm lens (click to enlarge).

What they all have in common is that they wrote about visits to the underworld. Another feature that they share is that apart from Dante they are reacting to the apocalyptic events happening above them. They look at each other in alarm, or peer out of their little windows at the scenes above. It brings the biblical prophecies and classical literature together in a very Renaissance-humanist way, but it is also a little joke on Signorelli’s part.

Orvieto Cappella Nuova
Cappella Nouva, youth looking out of a hole in the Zoccolo. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm lens (click to enlarge).

Signorelli worked in Rome and elsewhere in central Italy, but I think this is his unquestioned masterpiece. It’s all quite an extraordinary experience, and one that we have yet to tire of repeating. When we first visited I was just impressed by the scale of it all. It was only later that I realised firstly how revolutionary it was in artistic terms, but also how elements of it would have resonated with recent history. We’ve been there a few times over the years, and Orvieto is one of our favourite places to take visitors. It helps that there is an excellent restaurant (Trattoria Vinosus) in the piazza next to the duomo.

A note on sources

These frescoes are an important landmark in Renaissance art, and the Duomo a major example of Gothic architecture, and as such you will find many references to them in art histories and online articles. There are references in Philip’s Travel Guides: Umbria by Jonathan Keats, which was particularly helpful in identifying which of the façade mosaics are later restorations. Much of what I have found on the frescoes comes from Signorelli’s Orvieto Frescoes, A Guide to the Cappella Nuova of Orvieto Cathedral, by Dugald McLellan, 1998. We bought our copy in Orvieto in 1999.

McLennan

A note on the Photography

In some of the pictures of the Signorelli frescoes, I used a wide-angle lens from below, which introduced some distortion. I have attempted to correct the perspective in software, but only up to a point because of course some of the foreshortening was put there on purpose by Signorelli. If you want to get the full effect of his false-perspective tricks, you will just have to go there yourselves!

Renaissance Exuberance in Perugia

A visit to two different, but memorably-decorated churches in Perugia – the Oratory of St Bernardino, and the Basilica of San Pietro.

There are many excellent things to see in Perugia, and other reasons to visit too: good restaurants, not too crowded, parking fees that are not extortionate by Italian standards, and free escalators and lifts from car parks up to the historic centre. The Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria has fine examples of Umbrian Art, and the Museum of Archaeology (to be the subject of a future post) has fascinating Etruscan artefacts.

But for most historically-minded visitors to Perugia, one of the main impressions they take away with them is of the group of magnificent gothic public buildings[1] which together form the Palazzo dei Priori, at the end of the Corso Vannucci, near the duomo (cathedral) and the Fontana Maggiore. As I discussed in my post on The Buried Streets of Perugia, one reason this part of town is so well-preserved is because of the Papal conquest in the early 16th Century, and the subsequent expropriation of most revenue to Rome. The architecture stayed as it was because there was no money to change it – the money went to Rome where many fine old buildings were “modernised” in the baroque style. In architectural history, the hard times of earlier ages can sometimes be posterity’s gain.

All that being so, today I would like to talk about a couple of – in my view under-appreciated – buildings which are covered in exuberant Renaissance decoration, one on the outside, and one all over the inside. Both are in easy walking distance from the historic centre, but because the centre has so much to offer, many visitors never get to them and you can admire them in peace.

The Oratory of St Bernardino of Siena

Let us start with the one that is decorated on the outside. It is the Oratorio di San Bernardino, part of a complex which includes the larger church of San Francesco al Prato, nowadays associated with Perugia University.

Although he came from Siena, Bernardino preached all over central Italy, and was particularly active in Perugia, where you can see a special pulpit they built for him on the side of the duomo. I don’t know if non-Catholics are supposed to have favourite Catholic saints, but if I were allowed to, Bernardino would definitely not be one of mine. He preached fiery sermons against Jews, homosexuals and gypsies, sometimes leading to violence against them, and his views on women seem to have been regressive even by the standards of the early 15th Century. He is associated with the start of a period of witch-burnings that was a stain on European history for over two hundred years.

In iconography, he is always rather appropriately represented as having a pinched, disapproving face, and since this seems to be based on contemporary portraits, that must indeed be what he looked like. Anyway, I don’t want to give offence, so let us move on to the charming little oratory that the Perugians started building in his honour in 1452, only eight years after his death and two years after his canonisation.

It seems that Bernardino is credited with having pacified the warring factions in Perugia (see my post on Tough Guys in Art – the Baglioni of Perugia) and it is for this reason that he was popular there.

To complete the building, the Perugians commissioned a Florentine sculptor called Agostino di Duccio to create a façade in polychrome, showing The Glory of St Bernardino.

Oratorio di San Bernardino, Perugia
The Oratory of St Bernardino, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

And glorious it is, with cream and pink marble, and blue lapis lazuli creating a most agreeable pastel effect. Apparently there was gold there too once, but whether this was deliberately removed or just flaked off I don’t know. It must have been magnificent when new.

At the top there is a Virgin and Child, below which you can see the words AUGUSTA PERUSIA, the title given to the city in antiquity by the Emperor Augustus (see my post on The Ancient Gates of Perugia) and the date 1461, when the façade was completed.

Oratorio di San Bernardino, Perugia
Oratory of San Bernardino, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

In the centre, we see the saint surrounded by angels, below which is a frieze commemorating the attested miracles that would have been needed for his canonisation. That is also where the sculptor signed his name – OPUS AUGUSTINI FLORENTINI LAPICIDAE.

Oratorio di San Bernardino, Perugia.
Oratory of San Bernardino, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

My favourite parts are the panels either side of the two doors, where there are several angel musicians. Most of the musicians are showing the expected decorum, but one seems to be auditioning for the role of lead guitarist in a thrash metal rock band.

Oratorio di San Bernardino, Perugia
Decorous angels, Oratorio of St Barnardino, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)
Oratorio di San Bernardino, Perugia
Indecorous angels, Oratorio of St Bernardino, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

Inside the church is a complete contrast; very simple and austere. I don’t know if it has always been thus, or whether, as in so many cases, a modern restoration has removed baroque accretions to bring back the dignity of the original. But if baroque excess is your thing, there is a chapel behind the altar you should visit.

Oratorio di San Bernardino, Perugia.
Interior, Oratory of St Bernardino, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

The altar itself is a Christian sarcophagus of the late Roman period. It was re-used to house the remains of Giles of Assisi, one of the companions of St Francis.

Oratorio di San Bernardino, Perugia
Roman sarcophagus, re-used to hold the remains of The Blessed Giles (Beato Egidio), Oratory of St Bernardino, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

On the wall you can see hanging a gonfalone or banner, commemorating the deliverance of Perugia from an outbreak of plague in 1464. The Madonna is shown protecting the city from divine wrath in the form of two armed angels and a particularly angry-looking Christ. At the bottom, another armed angel (I think it is the Archangel Michael) is driving away the figure of death with a spear. The interceding saints are on either side of the Madonna, with St Bernardino at the lower left. You can see what I mean about his pinched face.

Gonfalone, Oratorio di San Bernardino, Perugia
Gonfalone (banner) of St Francis, Oratory of St Bernardino, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

The Abbey Church of San Pietro

This basilica, to the south-east of the historic centre of Perugia, is most definitely not a Renaissance building. Parts of it date from the 10th Century, replacing a 4th-Century church which was in turn erected on an Etrusco-Roman religious site. It was the church of a wealthy and powerful monastery (now the department of agriculture and environmental science at the university).

San Pietro, Perugia
Monastery cloister, San Pietro, Perugia, now part of the university. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

It has a distinctive tower on a 12-sided base, dating from the 13th Century, long a Perugian landmark. In fact in the National Gallery of Umbria there is a series of 15th-Century paintings by Benedetto Bonfigli showing incidents in the life of the Patron Saint of Perugia, St Herculanus, ending with the transfer of his remains to San Pietro. Despite Herculanus having been an historical figure from the 6th Century, Bonfigli charmingly paints it all as having occurred in the Perugia of his own day, in which the tower of San Pietro is easily identified.

San Pietro, Perugia
Tower of San Pietro, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)
Bonfigli Sant'Ercolano
Transfer of the body of St Herculanus, by Benedetto Bonfigli (ca 1420-1496) showing the tower of San Pietro. Galleria Nazionale Dell’Umbria, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

It seems that like many powerful monastic establishments, the Abbey took sides in secular conflicts, which sometimes saw it being attacked, damaged and restored. In the 16th Century a period of reconstruction and decoration of the basilica began which continued into the 18th, and in the course of this every single available surface was covered in frescoes, oil paintings and wood carvings. Although the quality of the art is variable, the overall effect is overwhelming.

Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia
Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)
Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia
Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)
Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia
Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)
Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia
Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

Behind the altar, the choir stalls are of intricately carved and inlaid wood, with many grotesque – and distinctly non-religious – subjects.

Choir stalls, Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia
Choir stalls, Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)
Choir stalls.Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia
Choir stalls, Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)
Choir stalls, Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia
Choir stalls, Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

The church also holds a collection of manuscript volumes of Gregorian Chant, some beautifully illuminated.

Music book, Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia
Music book, showing the Agnus Dei from the end of one mass, and the Kyrie eleison from the start of another. The reason they were so big is that the singers didn’t have their own copies, so had to be able to read them from a distance. Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)
Music book, Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia.
Elaborately-illuminated music book, with not much room left for the actual music! Basilica di San Pietro, Perugia. Fujifilm GFX 50R camera, Fujifilm GF32-64mm R LM WR lens (click to enlarge)

In 2022 we attended a performance here of Claudio Monteverdi’s Vespers of 1610 by a group from Monteverdi’s home town of Cremona. It was beautifully performed, and in a most evocative setting.


[1] Note: in architectural terms, “gothic” refers to the style of the late Middle Ages, characterised by pointy window arches and other decorative features. It has nothing to do with the Goths, confusingly.