Cremona, Mantua and Venice – the life of Claudio Monteverdi

I would like to invite you on a tour through northern Italy, to Cremona, Mantua and Venice, the three cities in which lived one of the greatest composers in the history of music – Claudio Monteverdi (1567 – 1643).

Claudio Monteverdi
Portrait of Claudio Monteverdi by Bernardo Strozzi (Wikimedia Commons) (click to enlarge)

If you have not heard of him, or not heard much about him, there might be a few reasons for that. Two of the principal ones are firstly that the conventional classical musical pantheon is mainly inhabited by 18th and 19th-Century composers from German-speaking countries. Secondly, his non-vocal music is intended for instruments which are not typically available to modern symphony or chamber orchestras. As a result, Monteverdi’s music did not really become accessible to audiences until the early music revival of the 1970s. And it was in the late 1970s that, at a university choral festival, I first made his acquaintance through his Vespers of 1610. At the time my ignorance was such that I did not really appreciate how extraordinarily pivotal he was in music history, or how innovative was his music. Instead my critical insights were along the lines of “wow, this is good stuff!” (at least I got that bit right).

Before we start on the travelogue, let me try and set the context with some musical examples. Monteverdi’s long career straddles the late Renaissance and early Baroque periods, and he was a key influence on the transition from the older style to the newer. Oh, and along the way he managed to more or less invent opera.

Let us start with what came before. Here is an example of mature Renaissance music in the polyphonic style, a motel by Giovanni Pierluigi da Palestrina from 1604. You can hear how, rather than having a melody on top and an accompanying harmonisation underneath, each part is equally important and they weave around each other in a glorious harmonic soup.

Sicut Cervus by Palestrina, performed by The Gesualdo Six

It certainly is not simple or primitive music – it is very complex, but the structure imposes restrictions in terms of both harmonic and textural variations. Compare that with the following piece by Monteverdi – Nigra Sum sed Formosa from the 1610 Vespers. The basic structure is actually simpler – a melody and underlying chords, but that gives the composer (and the performer) more scope for expression.

Nigra Sum sed Formosa by Monteverdi, performed by Thomas Cooley and the San Francisco Early Music Ensemble

Cremona

Monteverdi was born in the elegant city of Cremona in the Po Valley, then part of the Duchy of Milan. These days the name Cremona is redolent with musical associations, but that is due to its having become, a century or so later, a centre for musical instrument manufacture by luthiers such as Stradivari and Guanieri. These days it is still elegant, and in the traffic-free zone in the centro storico, it has a relaxed feel.

Cremona
Cremona. Hasselblad 501C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge)
Cremona
Cremona. Hasselblad 501C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge)

Monteverdi’s father was an apothecary, but young Claudio and his brother Giulio Cesare were destined for careers as musicians from a young age. It is known that Claudio was a student of a musician called Ingegneri who was maestro di cappella at the duomo in Cremona. This may well mean that Claudio was also a member of the cathedral choir.

Cremona DUomo
Cremona, the Duomo. Hasselblad 501C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge)

The Duomo still stands in the main piazza of Cremona. It is the expected palimpsest of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles, but the overall effect is harmonious enough. For our purposes, the important thing is that it looks today almost exactly as it would have done when the young Claudio wandered home across the square for lunch after a morning studying music theory, or scurried along under the cloisters on a dark wet winter’s morning on his way to sing at early mass.

Cremona Duomo
Cremona, the Duomo. Hasselblad 501C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge)

Mantua

Monteverdi’s first published works date from his youthful studies in Cremona, but it was not long before he got the first of the only two jobs he held over the course of his long life. It was in Mantua, at the ducal court. He started there as a string player, but it was not long before his other talents were recognised, and the tasks flowed in. Compositions sacred and secular, for grand and intimate occasions, theatrical productions, you name it. The demands were continuous, and the schedule punishing.

Mantua
Mantua, a corner of the Ducal Palace. Hasselblad 501C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge)

While the work was regular, his pay was not. We met the ruling family of Mantua, the Gonzagas, before, in their glory years around the turn of the 16th Century. But a hundred years later the Gonzagas’ party was coming to an end, although no-one was ready to admit it. Mercenary soldiering didn’t pay as well as it once did, and Duke Vincenzo wasn’t actually all that much of a soldier anyway – although he was good at striking martial poses. He was also quite good at flouncing off the battlefield if he thought his dignity had been impugned, or if there looked like being any chance of real action. Nor were the strategic circumstances as conducive as they had been to skilled balancing acts between the major powers. Not that Vincenzo would have been much good at that either, probably.

Mantua
Mantua, corridor in the Ducal Palace. Hasselblad 501C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge)

The one thing that remained important was putting on a good show – facendo una bella figura – and among other things, it helped to be seen to be employing the greatest musician of the day, even if the state revenues didn’t quite run to paying him regularly. The state archives of Mantua contain many letters from Monteverdi, pointing out how badly in arrears his salary was.

But – and posterity must be grateful – that didn’t stop Monteverdi churning out innovative music of great beauty and variety. We think of the Italian Renaissance as being the centre of innovation in the arts, but in fact this wasn’t quite the case for music. In the late Middle Ages and much of the Renaissance, the action was in northern Europe, and when Italian courts started employing the great composers of the day, they were people like Josquin des Prez and Roland de Lassus from northern France and Flanders. When Monteverdi arrived in Mantua, the maestro di cappella was a Fleming whose Italianicised name has come down to us as Giaches de Wert. Monteverdi was therefore probably one of the first great Italian musical innovators, and his early madrigals showed a willingness to push the rules of harmony to breaking point in order to capture the emotional intensity of the text.

Mantua Ducal Palace
Mantua, courtyard in the Ducal Palace. Hasselblad 501C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge)

That led him into inevitable controversies, and he conducted a long-running argument with a grumpy old musical theorist from Bologna called Giovanni Artusi who wrote a treatise called On the Imperfections of Modern Music. In this, although he did not name Monteverdi, Artusi illustrated his arguments with copious examples of Monteverdi’s own works! Monteverdi countered that there were two styles of music at the time – prima pratica, which was the older polyphony, and seconda pratica which was the newer melodic style. And to drive home the point, he showed that he was adept at both. But Monteverdi had his supporters too, who were happy to enter the lists on his behalf while he concentrated on composition.

Meanwhile, the Renaissance enthusiasm for artistic models from Greek and Roman antiquity was still running high. Having worked their way through the obvious options – visual arts and architecture – scholars turned their attention to theatre and music. The latter had the obvious disadvantage that there were no surviving examples or even any useful descriptions of ancient music, but some scholars noted references to the fact that the chorus in Greek plays sang their lines rather than speaking them. This, and the contemporary evolution of the highly emotional seconda pratica style of solo songs and madrigals, led people to consider the idea of a dramatic work in which all the dialogue was sung.

Monteverdi was not the only musician active in the field, but his l’Orfeo (Orpheus) of 1607 has long been considered the first proper opera. Below is a photograph of the Sala degli Specchi (Room of Mirrors) in the Ducal Palace in Mantua. It has been remodelled since the early 17th Century, but it is thought that the first performance of l’Orfeo took place in this room, or an adjacent one. And as you can see, it is still used for performances.

Mantua Ducal Palace
Mantua, Ducal Palace, “Sala degli Specchi”. Hasselblad 501C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge)

If this is indeed the location of the original performance, you can see that the audience would not have been all that large. And while the interior may have been remodelled, the view out of the windows is not likely to have changed very much.

Mantua Ducal Palace
Mantua, Ducal Palace, view from the “Sala degli Specchi”. Hasselblad 501C/M camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge)

Meanwhile Monteverdi had become fed up with Mantua. He was overworked, the damp climate disagreed with him, and his wife had died young, leaving him to raise two small boys on a small and unreliable wage. But if you worked for a ducal court, you couldn’t just resign; you had to be granted permission to leave. Despite several written requests from Monteverdi, this permission was always refused. In 1610 he published a mass and “some other pieces” dedicated to Pope Paul V, and it is thought that this was part of an unsuccessful attempt on his part to get a job in Rome. The Mass – Missa in Illo Tempore – was a polyphonic piece in the prima pratica style, showing his mastery of that older form, although not without some unexpected harmonic modulations of which Artusi would have disapproved.

The “other pieces”, though, were the psalms, motets and Magnificat which make up a complete setting of the vespers service, and of the works of Monteverdi that survive, the Vespers of 1610 is his masterpiece – probably the greatest unsuccessful job application ever.

The Vespers demand a full listening – my favourite recording is that by Philippe Herreweghe. But here are some more examples to go with the Nigra Sum sed Formosa linked above. Let us start with the stunning opening – Deus in Adiutorium Meum Intende (O God, make speed to save me). The Gregorian chant opening phrase is performed by the tenor soloist, “operatically” as if he is really crying out for help, after which the chorus and orchestra let rip, with a fanfare (recycled from l’Orfeo) playing underneath a monolithic D Major chord from the chorus. Wake up, music – the 17th Century is here!

Monteverdi, Deus in Adiutorium Meum Intende, performed by Szczawnica Chamber Choir, Cappella Infernata, Musica Aeterna Bratislava, dir. Agnieszka Żarska

The Vespers is a real tour de force in which Monteverdi displays mastery of different styles, and invents some more. What could have been more of a shock to old Artusi than to hear the psalm Nisi Dominus set to music in dance rhythms?

Monteverdi, Nisi Dominus, The Monteverdi Choir and Orchestra, dir. John Eliot Gardiner

Then in 1612, the Duke died, and his successor, faced with state finances that were completely out of control, did what all incoming governments do, and slashed spending. Monteverdi and his brother were unceremoniously sacked and found themselves returning to Cremona in real financial hardship.

Venice

But finally something went right for him. The following year, the most prestigious musical job in Italy – Director of Music at St Mark’s in Venice – suddenly became vacant, and Monteverdi got it. He was to live another thirty years, and he spent them all in Venice.

St Mark's, Venice
The Basilica of St Mark, Venice. Hasselblad 500C/M, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens 6x6cm film back, Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).

I have been lucky enough to hear Monteverdi’s music performed in St Mark’s. In 2016 we were poking about near the Basilica when Lou noticed a small poster in Italian announcing a free concert that evening, to commemorate the 700th anniversary of the founding of a permanent musical establishment there. While there are always concerts on in Venice, most of them assume you only want to hear Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. So this promised to be special. And it was – not only for the music, which included a movement from the Missa in Illo Tempore, but interesting also to hear Monteverdi’s music in the sort of highly resonant acoustic for which it was composed. This sets practical limits on the speed at which it can be performed, and is something to which I feel musicologists sometimes pay insufficient attention. (Similarly, I feel that arguments about the appropriate number of musicians to perform Bach Cantatas should take account of the size of the choir loft in St Thomas’s Church in Leipzig).

These days, the selfie-stick plague means that photography is not permitted inside the Basilica during tourist visiting hours, but there seemed to be no such prohibition during an evening concert, so I grabbed a couple of shots on my phone.

St Mark's Venice
Interior of St Mark’s during a concert. Nexus 5 phone camera, ProShot camera app (click to enlarge).
St Mark's Venice
Interior of St Mark’s during a concert. Nexus 5 phone camera, ProShot camera app (click to enlarge).

It is sobering to think that, while what we have of Monteverdi’s music contains pieces of extraordinary beauty, much has not survived. Several of his operas and perhaps the major part of his liturgical music are lost. One of the lost operas was his second – Arianna (Ariadne) which tells the story of Ariadne’s abandonment on the island of Naxos by Theseus. Fortunately, the dramatic high point of the opera, Ariadne’s Lament, was so popular that it survives in several editions. It is in a recitativo style, where melodic sections are interspersed by sections where the rhythms match the natural rhythms of speech – another novelty.

Monteverdi, Lamento di Arianna. Accademia degli Imperfetti, Silvia Piccollo, soprano.

After Monteverdi’s death, his music (apart from the Lament) appears to have faded from the repertoire, and while no book of musical history would have been complete without a discussion of his influence, concert-goers would have been hard put to actually hear much of his music until the early music revival of the second half of the 20th Century. A major contribution to this was the publication of a performance edition of the 1610 Vespers, in modern notation, by the musicologist Denis Stevens in 1961.

These days there are many performing groups, and audiences, for whom Monteverdi would be considered core repertoire, which is an excellent thing. Here is an exuberant performance of Zefiro Torna by the group l’Arpeggiata.

Monteverdi, Zefiro Torna, performed by l’Arpeggiata, with sopranos Nurial Rial and Philippe Jaroussky.

Oddly, an early partisan of the rediscovery of Monteverdi at the start of the 20th Century was the poet and proto-fascist Gabriele d’Annunzio. Though I suspect that for d’Annunzio, the main attraction of Monteverdi was not necessarily his music, but the fact that he was Italian and not German.

But even though he may have been largely forgotten in his native country, it is possible with a bit of historical licence to trace Monteverdi’s influence on German music. The Dresden composer Heinrich Schütz studied twice in Venice, the first time under Giovanni Gabrieli, from whom he acquired his facility with polychoral composition. The second time it was with Monteverdi. On his return, Schütz composed operas and Venetian-style motets, although there wasn’t much demand for them during the privations of the Thirty Years War. But the other thing he brought back with him was Monteverdi’s recitativo style that we heard earlier in Arianna. This he incorporated into the emerging German cantata form, in which, as in Monteverdi’s operas, the music served the meaning of the text. In due course this tradition found its highest expression in the music of J.S. Bach. The idea of a direct line from Monteverdi to Bach is one that I find particularly appealing.

One of the reasons we know so much about Monteverdi’s career is that he was, almost from the start, a civil servant employed by two states whose official archives, including his correspondence with his employers, have mostly survived. If you go and see Monteverdi’s tomb in Venice, you will find it in a church (see below) that is next to the building that contained the official archives of the Republic.

Venice, Archives
Venice, the old Archives Building. Hasselblad 500C/M, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens 6x6cm film back, Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).

Although he became a priest in 1631 (never having remarried after the death of his wife) Monteverdi continued to compose secular as well as sacred music, including several more operas. His final opera, published in the year of his death – 1643 – is l’Incoronazione di Poppea (The Coronation of Poppea). This is, simply, extraordinary. Absent are the Olympian gods, gone are the arcadian nymphs and swains, gone are the heroes of legend. Instead it is a bloody historical drama from ancient Rome about the Emperor Nero and his lover Poppea. At the end, after all the good characters are dead or exiled and only the two evil characters remain, they sing this meltingly beautiful (and highly erotic) love duet. Astonishing stuff from an elderly priest.

“Pur ti Miro” from l’Incoronazione di Poppea, with Philippe Jaroussky as Nero and Danielle de Niese as Poppea.

Some of the material in Poppea is known to be by other composers – not unusual at the time. There is a bit of discussion about whether Monteverdi actually wrote Pur Ti Miro. I’ve recently listened to a podcast on the subject from the BBC Radio 3 “Early Music Show” and I’m inclined to come down on the side of it having been Monteverdi. If not, then whoever wrote it went to great pains to reproduce Monteverdi’s style with complete fidelity.

On his death, Monteverdi was buried in the great Franciscan church of the Frari, in Venice.

Frari, Venice
The Frari Church, Venice. Hasselblad 500C/M, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens 6x6cm film back, Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).
Frari, Venice
Altarpiece by Bellini, the Frari Church, Venice. Hasselblad 500C/M, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens 6x6cm film back, Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).
Frari, Venice
Carved and gilded choir stalls, the Frari Church, Venice. Hasselblad 500C/M, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens 6x6cm film back, Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).

If you enter from the glare of the street, and, having taken in the altarpieces by Bellini and Titian, you look down to your left, you will see the composer’s simple tombstone. You may find an offering of some sort placed on it, maybe some of the spring flowers that feature so often in his madrigals.

Frari, Venice
Monteverdi’s tomb, the Frari Church, Venice. Hasselblad 500C/M, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens, 6x6cm film back, Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).

Venice Curiosities

Venice is full of of little curiosities which reward keen-eyed and historically-minded visitors as they flee into the dark alleys away from the heaving crowds in the Piazza San Marco, or the souvenir sellers on the Riva degli Schiavoni.

You can see the commemorative plaque on the wall of a house from which, in the year 1310, an old lady dropped a mortar on the head of the standard-bearer of the would-be coup d’état leader Bajamonte Tiepolo, killing him on the spot, and foiling the rebellion. Or one of the little courtyards named del milion after one of its inhabitants, Marco Polo. Apparently people got so tired of his boasting about the fabulous wealth he had enjoyed in the East that they gave him the nickname milion.

Try not to drop the True Cross in the canal

I have a couple of other examples for you. Let us start in the Accademia gallery, with Gentile Bellini’s painting, executed around the year 1500, of The Miracle of the True Cross at the Bridge of San Lorenzo.

Small pieces of wood, purporting to be fragments of the True Cross (ie the cross on which Christ was crucified) were especially venerated in the Middle Ages. There were quite a few of them – perhaps enough for several crosses. A particularly precious fragment found its way into the possession of the post-crusader kingdom of “Cyprus and Jerusalem” in the mid-14th Century. By that time of course, it was only Cyprus, as Jerusalem had been lost to the West for all practical purposes almost two hundred years earlier.

Cyprus itself became an effective Venetian colony, through some typically tough Venetian realpolitik involving a young Venetian lady named Caterina Cornaro, who became Queen of Cyprus. Hers is a sad and romantic story, and I should write a separate post about her one day. But one of the items of treasure which found its way from Cyprus to Venice in that period was the fragment of the True Cross, which in 1369 was donated to one of Venice’s religious-commercial brotherhoods, in this case the Scuola of St John the Baptist.

Soon after its arrival in Venice, the relic in its elaborate reliquary was being taken through the streets for public veneration in its annual possession. Unfortunately, as the procession crossed the bridge over the San Lorenzo Canal, it fell in the water. Various members of the scuola dived in after it, but the relic mysteriously evaded efforts to retrieve it, until the head of the scuola himself entered the water.

As miracles go, it doesn’t seem to have involved a conspicuous suspension of the laws of nature, but an attested miracle associated with a relic was thought for obvious reasons to confirm the relic’s authenticity. So a miracle it became.

A century and a bit later, the scuola commissioned a series of paintings from leading artists of the day, including Perugino and Carpaccio, of miracles attributed to the True Cross. Gentile Bellini (1429-1507) got the commission for the San Lorenzo incident. In the picture below you can see the procession, halted on the bridge, the unsuccessful rescuers sloshing about in the canal, and the head of the brotherhood holding up the relic. To the right, an African, possibly a domestic servant, prepares to jump in and help, and the praying lady in black at the far left is thought to be Queen Caterina.

San Lorenzo Bellini
The Miracle of the True Cross at Ponte San Lorenzo by Gentile Bellini. Source: Wikimedia Commons (click to enlarge).

Now leave the Accademia with the picture fixed firmly in your mind, or even better, buy a postcard of it in the gift shop for reference purposes. Head eastward, past the Piazza San Marco, crossing a couple more canals, until you get to the Rio Di San Lorenzo. Cross the canal at the Ponte dei Greci, stop halfway across, and look north. That is where I took the photograph below, approximately 520 years after Bellini painted it. But it is recognisably the same place!

San Lorenzo
Ponte San Lorenzo from Ponte dei Greci. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50C digital back (click to enlarge).

There are a couple of nice canal-side trattorie by the bridge; after your exertions you could do worse than stop there for an Aperol Spritz and imagine Bellini’s scene around you.

Graffiti was a problem a thousand years ago too.

After your drink, keep going in the same direction, away from St Mark’s and towards the Arsenale. This famous shipyard, the name of which became synonymous with military industry, was the wonder of its age, in which a ship could be rapidly built to a standard pattern. On one famous occasion a visiting King of France was shown the laying of a keel first thing in the morning, and the completed and fully-crewed ship sailing out through the gate that same evening. These ships were used for trade in time of peace, but could be rapidly converted for war, giving Venice access to a sizable fleet when it was needed, without the expense of maintaining it when it wasn’t.

We’ll come back to the Arsenale, but first I should mention another Venetian habit. Since Venice adopted St Mark as its patron, the evangelist’s symbol of the winged lion became Venice’s symbol. It is everywhere in the Veneto, and I still remember the thrill I felt on my first visit when I saw my first winged lion – albeit somewhat prosaically on an overpass as the emblem of the regional motorway maintenance organisation.

Venice itself has stone lions by the hundreds, many locally carved and resting their right paws on a book with the words spoken to St Mark by an angel: “Pax tibi Marce, evangelista mea” (Peace unto you, Mark, my evangelist). One of the fiercest-looking lions is on the gate of the Arsenale, in one of the first pieces of Renaissance architecture in the city, executed by the artist Gambello in commemoration of the Battle of Lepanto in 1571 (the Renaissance came late to Venice). Famously it doesn’t feature “Pax tibi…” as those words were felt a bit too pacific for such a martial institution.

Arsenale
The gate to the Arsenale. The navy officer walking in shows that this is still a military establishment. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50C digital back (click to enlarge).

But not all the lions were home-grown. As Venetian merchants roamed the Middle East, they developed the habit of souveniring any stone lions they came across. Some were much older than Venice. The lion on top of one of the two columns by the Doge’s Palace came from ancient Persia, although the wings were added after its arrival in Venice.

One such peripatetic lion, which ended up as one of a group outside the Arsenale gate, arrived in Venice from the Athenian port of Piraeus in 1687, during the campaign in which a Venetian cannon ball blew up a Turkish ammunition dump, unfortunately located in the Parthenon. But the lion was extremely ancient even then, having guarded Piraeus since antiquity.

Arsenale lion
Lion outside the Arsenale, originally from Piraeus. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50C digital back (click to enlarge).

On arrival it was seen to have some strange characters – not Greek – engraved on its flanks. These remained a mystery until a visiting Danish scholar in the 19th Century recognised them as Norse runes. They turn out to have been carved on the instructions of a Norwegian mercenary called Harald the Tall who fought in various Mediterranean campaigns in the 11th century, and who died in 1066 fighting the Saxons at the Battle of Stamford Bridge, just before the Battle of Hastings. The inscription records the fact that Harald had captured Piraeus, and mentions the activities and locations of various of his companions.

Arsenale lion runes
Norse runes on the side of the lion. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50C digital back (click to enlarge).

At this point I can do no better than to quote from Jan Morris’s Venice:

“And on the right haunch of this queer animal is inscribed, in the runic: ‘Asmund engraved these runes in combination with Asgeir, Thorleif, Thord, and Ivar, by desire of Harald the Tall, although the Greeks on reflection opposed it.’ What all this means, only the lion knows: but modern scholars have interpreted its general sense as implying that Kilroy, with friends, was there.”

It is almost too much for the history enthusiast to take. Ancient Greece! Viking Mercenaries! The Battle of Lepanto! You probably need another drink and a bit of a sit-down. Fortunately there is another trattoria opposite the Arsenale gate.

Commemorating the Passing of a Pandemic

The annual Festa del Redentore reminds us that Venice was very vulnerable to plagues. Even after it ceased to be the principal port of entry for European imports from the East, its position at the head of the Adriatic made it a bottleneck for trade. Ships laden with the treasures of the East also carried disease. And once the infection reached Venice, its densely-populated islands were an ideal environment in which it could spread.

A particularly bad outbreak came to an end in 1576. To commemorate the end of the ordeal, and to give thanks for deliverance, the Venetians commissioned the church of the Redentore (Redeemer) on the island of Giudecca. It is a very fine Renaissance neo-classical church by Palladio – indeed his finest according to some grand tourists, including the Palladio enthusiast William Beckford.

At the church’s inauguration in 1577, the Doge processed there on foot, crossing the basino on a bridge of boats lashed together, and attending a mass. This became a tradition: once a year in July, the Venetians would build a bridge of boats tied together across the Giudecca canal to the Church of the Redentore, parade across, hold a thanksgiving service, then have a party.

The festival is still observed today, with perhaps slightly more emphasis on the party aspect. On the Saturday evening Venetians all come out and have dinner in the open, whether on boats, at hugely expensive white-tie restaurant dinners, or at communal tables set up in every neighbourhood piazza. Then there is a massive fireworks display just before midnight.

We went to Venice in 2017 to see the festival, and found accommodation in a small hotel on Giudecca, which placed us near the heart of the action.

The formal opening of the bridge was on the Saturday evening. When John Julius Norwich was writing his magnificent A History of Venice (published in 1982) he noted that the bridge had been discontinued in 1970 because of the requirement for cargo vessels to access the port of Mestre. Fortunately the tradition has been revived, although these days the bridge of boats has been replaced by a pontoon bridge which looks like the sort of thing army engineers would throw up to get an infantry division across a major river. Just as well, because after the speeches by various civil, military and religious officials, people started marching towards us across the bridge in truly awesome numbers.

Chiesa del Redentore
The Church of Redentore, taken from the pontoon bridge. This was actually early on the Sunday morning, when the crowds were much reduced. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Sonnar CF 150mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

Unfortunately the Redentore has become part of the international youth party itinerary, like the Running of the Bulls, and it did seem a bit as if we had wandered into a Melbourne New Years Eve rave party. But the fireworks were extraordinary. I was not going to bring my Hasselblad out into the rave party so we just took photos on our phones. Lou took the best one, which I reproduce below. The fireworks illuminating the distant dome of Santa Maria della Salute remind me of the famous photographs of St Paul’s in London during the Blitz.

Festa del Redentore
Fireworks over Venice, Festa del Redentore. You can see the silhouette of the pontoon bridge. Taken on Lou’s Samsung S6 phone camera (click to enlarge)

Sunday dawned beautiful and sunny, and not too hot. We went out and walked across the pontoon bridge to Dorsoduro – it was considerably less crowded than the night before, doubtless because all the party dudes were sleeping off their excesses, and the atmosphere was of a jolly family day rather than a doof-doof rave party. The main public areas had mostly been cleaned up first thing, and the people who had had their own street parties had done their own cleaning up.

After wandering around for a bit we found a very nice restaurant called Trattoria Altanella close by on Giudecca with a terrace by the water to have lunch. Being “proper” Venetian the menu was mainly seafood – I had grilled octopus followed by bigoli (sort of thick spaghetti) with an anchovy and onion sauce. Lou had sardines in saor followed by squid-ink pasta with zucchini and shrimps. The proprietor gave us a postcard showing a photograph of the same restaurant a hundred years ago (it actually started in the 1880s). It has always been run by the same family, and the proprietor’s son is in training to take over.

Later in the afternoon we went out to see another traditional part of the Redentore festival – the gondola races, or in the local dialect, the “regatta” – yes folks, another Venetian word that has found its way into English, along with “arsenal”, “admiral”, “ghetto” and many others.

We made our way to the bridge from which we had watched the fireworks, and it being much less crowded, I set up my Hasselblad on a monopod. A bright orange boat was tied up alongside – young people in Aperol t-shirts and hats were handing out Aperol spritzes, and there was a very competent blues trio on board as well.

Festa del Redentore
The Aperol boat at Festa del Redentore. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Sonnar CF 150mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

Everything was very busy. There were the expected sorts of announcements over a PA – “would all contestants in the next event please report to the stewards’ boat” – and a couple of cops on jet-skis were having great fun patrolling the course, occasionally stopping to explain to onlookers on the shore that no, this was very serious and not as much of a lark as it looked.

Police jetski
Policeman not having fun at all. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Sonnar C 250mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

We arrived in time to see the conclusion of the penultimate event – the race for pupparini which are a sort of a light skiff rowed by two people. Like gondolas though, they are rowed with one oar per rower, standing up and facing forward, so the strength comes from pushing with the legs and arms rather than pulling with the legs and back as with rearward-facing rowers. Each boat was a different colour and the red boat won, to great applause.

Pupparini
Pupparini race, Festa del Redentore. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Sonnar C 250mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).
Pupparini
Pupparini race, Festa del Redentore. You can see how much effort is involved by the amount that the rear oar is bending. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Sonnar C 250mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).
Pupparini
Pupparini race, Festa del Redentore. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Sonnar C 250mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

The winning team then came down the fondamenta, to cries of “bravi! bravi!” and were rewarded with a couple of spritzes, which they drank while continuing to row one-handed.

Pupparini
Pupparini race, Festa del Redentore. The winners claim their free drinks. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Sonnar CF 150mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

Then the rowers of the orange boat realised that, despite not actually having come anywhere in the top three, theirs was about the same colour as the Aperol boat so with a bit of fast talking they could probably get a couple of the young Aperol ladies on board with them, which they did, to much cheering and waving.

Pupparini
Pupparini race, Festa del Redentore. The consolation prize. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Sonnar CF 150mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

All that though was just the preliminary to the final event – the race between proper gondolas, albeit stripped down to the minimum and once again painted in bright colours. The course was from the front of the Church of the Redentore to the western end of Giudecca and back, which at a very rough estimate I would put at six kilometres. They lined up, someone fired a gun, and off they went. Lou decided that we were barracking for the pink team, and sure enough they led as they came past. A terrific flotilla of small boats followed alongside as they disappeared around to our left. After a while an announcement came that the pinks had still been in the lead at the halfway point (cheers and applause).

Gondola Race
The start of the gondola race, Festa del Redentore. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Sonnar C 250mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

Eventually we saw the accompanying flotilla coming back, and sure enough, the pink gondola was still in the lead. But had they gone too hard too early? The white team was pressing them hard, and as they drew level with us it looked as if the pinks were losing strength. But they pulled out one last supreme effort and crossed the line first, to much applause. The physical strength involved in going so hard for so long must be considerable, and I have to say that the pink blokes were a couple of very fit and strong-looking chaps.

Gondola race winners
The winners of the gondola race with the pontoon bridge in the background, Festa del Redentore. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Sonnar C 250mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

That evening there were more ceremonies and a service at the Church of Redentore, accompanied as so often in Italy by representatives of the state. In this case these included Carabinieri, some of whom were resplendent in ceremonial uniforms, and a nattily-dressed officer of the Alpini, the much-loved alpine brigades of the Italian Army.

Festa del Redentore
Carabinieri and Alpini at the Festa del Redentore. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

As dusk fell we went for a last walk across the pontoon bridge before it was closed at 10pm, thus cutting us off – or if you like, thus cutting off the rest of Italy from Giudecca. The evening was warm, the fading light was golden, and everything felt very peaceful.

That was in 2017. The Festa del Redentore went ahead in 2020 – a more subdued affair by all accounts in the shadow of the COVID-19 pandemic. The key elements were there though: the gondola races and the commemoration of the city’s recovery from a deadly infection over four hundred years ago. Long may it continue so.

Evening Photography: Rome, Venice and Tuscany

Evening photography can produce dramatic results, although it has its challenges. Here are some examples from Venice, Rome and Tuscany.

Earlier I promised some evening shots to complement my early morning photographs of Venice. Evening photography has the same main benefit as dawn, which is to say warmer light and lower contrast. In fact, sometimes the atmospheric haze at the end of a long day (natural or from pollution) can produce more pleasing colours than in the clarity of dawn.

Evening in Venice
Venice at sunset from the bridge over the Rio de la Tana. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Nikon Nikkor-M 300mm lens, Horseman 6x12cm rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).

Another advantage over dawn photography is not having to set the alarm clock. The disadvantage, of course, is that there will usually be many more people about. So bridges and waterfronts are good places to be to try and avoid having people wander through your shot.

Getting the exposure right can be tricky – even if your camera has the very latest algorithms to calculate exposure, it won’t always get it right. For much of my photography life, I did not use cameras with automatic exposure, but found that a good result could usually be obtained by using a hand-held spot meter on a point just to the side of the setting sun. For the photograph above I metered on a point about halfway between the sun and the belltower in Piazza San Marco. For the photograph below I metered from the clouds in the centre, just above the trees.

San Pietro
Rome: the dome of St Peter’s silhouetted by the setting sun, from Ponte Umberto I. Hasselblad 500 C/M medium format camera, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens, 6x6cm rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).

The picture above was taken with a “standard” focal length which roughly approximates what the eye sees. But if I had used a telephoto lens just to zoom in on the bright area, the result would have been less realistic but more dramatic. The photograph of the Val d’Orcia below shows how, with a long telephoto lens, you can take that to extremes – if that is the sort of thing you like.

Val d'Orcia
Sunset in the Val d’Orcia, Tuscany. Canon EOS-3 35mm film camera, 100-400mm IS L lens at 400mm. Fujichrome Velvia film. No filter was used, and no colour manipulation was applied to the digital file (click to enlarge).

The picture below of St Peter’s in Rome demonstrates a similar effect, although this time with some foreground detail. The “starburst” effect on the streetlights is not the result of a filter, but of the type of aperture used in large format lenses. The long exposure has smoothed the surface of the Tiber.

San Pietro
Rome: The Gianicolo Hill and the dome of St Peter’s after sunset, from Ponte Umberto I. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Nikon Nikkor-M 300mm lens, 4×5 inch sheet film back, Fujichrome Velvia film. No filter was used, and no colour manipulation was applied to the digital file (click to enlarge).

From memory, that photograph needed an exposure of almost ten minutes, given the slow film and the very small aperture I was using. Onlookers on either side took quite an interest, so I had to do my best to avoid anyone knocking the tripod. Halfway through the exposure, one of Rome’s ubiquitous hawkers tried to sell me a selfie stick but I explained to him that my camera was too big and heavy for that.

Venice: the lagoon in front of Giudecca, from the temporary pontoon bridge erected for the Festa del Redentore each year. Hasselblad 501 C/M medium format camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

When you have a distant silhouetted skyline, as in the photograph above, it is important that it be sharp. But to focus at infinity, while giving you that sharpness in the distance, would throw the foreground out of focus. The solution is to focus on the “hyperfocal distance”. The exact calculation of hyperfocal distance, and why it is important, is explained here, but a rule of thumb is to focus about a third of the way into the area you wish to be in focus, and use focus guides on your lens, if it has them, to give you an indication of the closest and furthest points that will be acceptably sharp at your chosen aperture. Some modern cameras will give you an indication of the range of sharp focus on the display, but I always like to see focus guides on a lens.

After sunset, as the light fades, there will come a point where everything is lost in shadow. But before that there will be a brief period, perhaps only a couple of minutes, when the intensity of both sky and ground is similar enough to capture detail and colour in both. Exactly when that is will depend on various things, including how bright it is in the areas you want to capture. In the photograph below I wanted to roughly balance the sky, the lights strung between the lamp posts, and the interior of the shop. Although it was still quite crowded, the people walking along the quayside are largely lost in the shadows, giving a sense of peace.

Giudecca Evening
Venice: the Giudecca after sunset, with festive lights put out for the Festa del Redentore. Hasselblad 501 C/M medium format camera, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

If you are not sure, a hand-held spot meter reading from all areas you wish to capture will help. My meter even has an function which allows you to take spot readings from multiple sources and then gives you an average exposure value. High-end modern SLRs can do the same thing in-camera. But I have to admit that in this picture I guessed – the more experience you have, the more likely you are to guess right. And if you are using digital, it costs you nothing to try various settings.

This final photograph in the set was quite challenging to take. I was set up on the Riva degli Schiavoni in Venice, which is one of the busiest areas, just near the Doge’s Palace. It was around 8pm, so there were still many people about, but I couldn’t leave it any later without the sky fading to black. My calculated exposure was around 10 minutes, and there was no way that I could go that long without other people wandering into the shot, or, even if they were out of shot, taking flash photographs which would have reflected off the nearer objects.

So I set the camera up, and started the exposure, timed with a stopwatch. Whenever it looked as if someone was about to wander in front of me, or was getting ready to take a flash photograph, I closed the shutter and stopped the stopwatch. When the coast was clear, I re-opened the shutter and restarted the stopwatch. All up, my ten-minute exposure took more than half an hour.

San Giorgio Maggiore
Venice: the Basino and San Giorgio Maggiore from the Riva degli Schiavoni. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Fuji Fujinon-W 125mm lens, Kang Tai 6x17cm rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).

The long exposure necessarily produced some artefacts. Obviously, the rocking of the gondolas blurred their outlines. The faint white blur about a third of the way over from the left is the shirt of a gondolier who climbed onto his boat and rowed away. Various bright horizontal streaks mark the passage of the lights on vaporetti and other craft. And the wavy bright line to the right of the centre is made by the light on the back of a gondola that was being rowed along.

Is it a “realistic” photograph? Probably not in any technical sense of the word. But to me it does bring back the mood of that evening rather powerfully. And I really only make photographs to please myself, so I guess that makes it a success.

Street Photography in Italy

“Street Photography” is a term that actually means “candid photography of people in the street” as in the famous photographs of Henri Cartier-Bresson. So that usually requires that you are doing it without those people’s consent. That makes it a bit tricky, but it is legal in Italy if it is not for commercial purposes, as this article explains.

Candid means not staged, although there are degrees of candidness. The very famous 1951 photograph An American Girl in Italy (actually one of a series) was planned by the photographer and the subject, who even did a second pass through the group of men to try and get better reactions. Despite her apparent distress, the subject, Ninalee Allen, claimed to have enjoyed herself thoroughly, imagining herself as Beatrice in a famous Victorian painting of Dante and Beatrice, as explained in her 2018 obituary in The Economist. Afterwards she went for a ride on the back of the scooter on the right.

American Girl in Italy
An American Girl In Italy by Ruth Orkin, 1951. I hope that reproducing this poor quality image may be considered fair dealing for review purposes.

And of course there are some good although much less famous examples from Francis Sandwith here.

My approach tends towards the opportunistic, and I do worry about the privacy aspect. That being said, the group of jolly gondolieri below, sauntering along the Riva degli Schiavoni in their traditional costumes looking for business can probably be assumed not to be seeking privacy. Similarly, people dressing up in historical costume and parading in the streets are not doing it for privacy either.

Gondolieri
Gondolieri. Hasselblad 500C/M, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens, 6×6 rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

Children make good subjects, thanks to their lack of self-consciousness, however – sadly – taking candid pictures of children can be thought a bit creepy in these nervous times, so it is a good idea to make sure that they are anonymous.

Via Garibaldi
Via Garibaldi, Venice. Contax G1 35mm rangefinder camera, Zeiss Planar 45mm lens. Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).
Via Garibaldi
Child chasing soap bubbles in Via Garibaldi, Venice. Contax G1 35mm rangefinder camera, Zeiss Planar 45mm lens. Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).

People who clearly have no expectation of privacy, or right to it, are those who walk in front of me when I am obviously trying to take a photograph. You have been warned.

A good example of street photography won’t just be a picture of people milling about aimlessly. There should be something special about it – it might tell a story, like Ninalee being ogled in Florence, or it might make the viewer speculate about what is happening. Sometimes there might be an element of drama, or you might catch someone in a serendipitous artistic pose, or in a position which adds to the composition.

Burano
Souvenir seller, Burano, Venice. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

My favourite camera for street photography was my beloved Contax G1 35mm film camera(1). It was small, quiet and unobtrusive, and its quick autofocus and large-aperture Zeiss lenses meant that you could quickly grab a sharp image. In comparison, the medium-format Hasselblad V-series is pretty large, needs to be focussed manually, and makes a terrifically loud agricultural-sounding clonk when you trip the shutter, so it isn’t particularly subtle. That being said, you can always fit a longer lens and take from further away. And although I usually use an eye-level prism viewfinder on the Hasselblad, if you fit the traditional looking-down-from-above waist-level viewfinder, you can be a bit sneaky about composing the shot.

Rio S Anna
Rio Sant’Anna, Venice. Contax G1 35mm rangefinder camera, Zeiss Planar 45mm lens. Fujichrome Velvia film (click to enlarge).

Sometimes you can add the drama yourself through photographic artefacts. In the picture below, I was looking down on St Mark’s Square and realised that with some people moving quickly and some standing still, a slow-ish exposure through a long lens might show some people blurred and some sharp. I had to steady the camera on the balustrade of the St Mark’s Basilica portico, but the result was acceptable.

San Marco
Tourists in Piazza San Marco, Venice. Hasselblad 500C/M camera, Zeiss Sonnar C 250mm lens, 6x6cm rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

If children make great unselfconscious subjects, dogs are even better (to the best of my knowledge, no-one has yet deemed it creepy to take pictures of dogs).

S Margherita
A stand-off at high noon, Campo Santa Margherita, Venice. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).
Bellagio
An enthusiastic customer, Bellagio, Lake Como. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

Sometimes a picture with a group of unrelated people can achieve a sort of balletic unity. In the picture below, there is a family group in the centre, one of whom is in a wheelchair. The child at the left rear looking at his phone seems almost posed, and at the right rear a young woman is working on a painting. All are positioned against an architecturally regular background, as if a theatre director had thought carefully about where each should go.

Giudecca
Giudecca, Venice. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

The next picture looks to me a bit like one of those scenes of frantic activity before the first act of an opera, where the cast bustle about the stage doing various bits of business while the orchestra gets stuck into the overture. Here a waiter approaches from the left holding a handful of bills, while nearby a father and daughter attend to their ice cream cones. And the little boy in the centre, hanging on to his mother’s hand, was clearly posed by someone who studied at the Louvre.

Castello
Castello district, Venice. Hasselblad 501C/M, Zeiss Distagon CF 60mm lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge).

Because of the influence of photographers like Henri Cartier-Bresson and Ruth Orkin, black and white photographs tend to evoke their brand of “reportage” photography.

Ponte Santi Apostoli
On the Ponte Santi Apostoli in Venice, a pair of gondolieri scan the passing crowd for likely customers. Hasselblad 500C/M camera, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens, 6x6cm film back, Ilford 200 B&W film (click to enlarge).
Florence
Street scene in Florence. Hasselblad 500C/M camera, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens, 6x6cm film back, Ilford 200 B&W film (click to enlarge).

The group of young buskers below were playing in one of the back streets in Naples, raising the price of their morning coffees and pastries, or maybe a lunchtime aperitivo. I like various things about this, including the dog lying in front of the guitarist, and the way that the natty red costume of the gentleman on the left is balanced by the scooter of the same colour on the right.

Via Tribunali
Buskers in Via Tribunali, Naples. Hasselblad 500C/M camera, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens, 6x6cm rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

The next picture was taken in Rome, in the Piazza del Popolo. It was evening, at the time of the passeggiata when people put on their nice clothes and head out into the street for a stroll and a chat. The setting sun was shining straight along the Via del Corso, and illuminated this very elegantly dressed old gentleman, who is talking to an equally elegant young carabiniere, standing very respectfully as he listens. And the red stripe on his trousers gives the picture a bit of life.

Piazza del Poplo
Piazza del Popolo, Rome. Hasselblad 500C/M, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens, 6×6 rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

The final two photographs were taken on fast (and therefore grainy) black-and-white film on a dull rainy day in the Ghetto area of Venice. “Ghetto” is an old Venetian word for foundry, and it was the area given to the Jews to live in. It is still a place of Jewish culture, and like “lido” and “arsenal”, it is another word that Venice gave the world. The first picture is of a shopkeeper who has stepped out into the street for a quick cigarette.

Ghetto
Ghetto, Venice. Hasselblad 500C/M camera, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens, 6x6cm rollfilm back, Ilford 400 B&W film (click to enlarge).

Shortly the light drizzle turned into proper rain, and a couple of deliverymen halted their boat under the Ponte delle Guglie to shelter until it passed.

Guglie
Ponte delle Guglie, near the Ghetto, Venice. Hasselblad 500C/M camera, Zeiss Planar C 80mm lens, 6x6cm rollfilm back, Ilford 400 B&W film (click to enlarge).

Note (1) February 2023: After many years of looking for a digital equivalent of the Contax G1 I have recently bought a Fujifilm X-Pro3 which promises to be just that. I will report separately when I have had a chance to come to grips with it.

Note (2) March 2023: I have posted again on street photography, this time in Naples, here.

And again in Bologna, here.

Dawn in Venice

The large format photographer is no stranger to the early morning alarm clock, and this is particularly the case when the subject is a city like Venice. Firstly, you need to get up early to capture the special light before, during and immediately after sunrise. Secondly, you don’t normally want a seething mass of people in your shot. And of course if there is a seething mass of people, you may be unable, or not permitted, to erect a substantial tripod with a heavy camera on it. Look at the photograph below, taken at around 6am, and imagine what it would look like at 11am when all the cruise ships and tour buses have emptied their passengers into St Mark’s Square.

Doge's Palace
The Doge’s Palace, Venice. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Fuji Fujinon-W 125mm lens, rising front standard to correct perspective. 4×5 inch sheet film back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

A good many Venice photographs naturally involve water, and the very early morning is a good time to find it at its most still.

Horseman 45FA
My Horseman 45FA in Venice, in this case with the 6x12cm rollfilm back fitted, and the Fujinon-W 210mm lens, with slight rising front (click to enlarge)

As I pointed out in my post on Urbino, early morning photography is an exercise that benefits from prior planning and reconnaissance. There is no point turning up to take a classic view, and finding that what you want is deep in shadow. This is particularly important in somewhere like Venice where you are unlikely to have too many choices of angles from which to compose your picture. So you need to work out where the sun will be coming from at the time, and on the date, you have in mind. I used to do this with paper maps, a compass, and tables of sunrise times and azimuths for the appropriate time of year. These days you can get apps that do it for you, and overlay the information on a map.

Sunphos
A screenshot from a smartphone app called Sunphos. The yellow line is the azimuth of sunrise, the red line that of sunset, and the black line the direction of the sun at the moment the screenshot was taken. The concentric circles indicate the elevation of the sun.

Fortunately in Venice the vaporetti start running pretty early, and even on foot you can get to places quite quickly. So for this next picture I was able to take the vaporetto across to Giudecca and be in position well before sunrise to take a photograph looking back across the Basino, with Palladio’s church of San Giorgio Maggiore silhouetted on the right and the main island in the distance. I used a neutral density graduated filter to balance the sky and the sea, and in low light conditions and using slow (ISO 50) film, I needed a long exposure which smoothed out the movements of the water. To the left, the Renaissance church on the other side of the lagoon, with the classical-style façade under an older campanile, is the Pietà, the institution for orphan girls where Vivaldi was the music master.

San Giorgio sunrise
San Giorgio Maggiore from Guidecca before sunrise. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Nikon Nikkor-W 150mm lens, 4×5 inch sheet film back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

Of course in Venice, particularly in the cooler months, all your plans to catch the breathtaking dawn sunlight can be frustrated by morning fog. This need not be a disaster, as the muted light can produce low contrast and some attractive pastel colours, as in this picture of Rio Sant’Anna.

Rio Sant'Anna
Rio Sant’Anna. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Nikon Nikkor-W 150mm lens, 4×5 inch sheet film back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

If you are still not happy that the muted colours give enough drama to your photograph, it is always worth trying converting it to black and white. I find that boosting the contrast, and sometimes the graininess, can add a bit of atmosphere.

Rio Sant'Anna
Rio Sant’Anna. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Nikon Nikkor-W 150mm lens, 4×5 inch sheet film back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film. Converted to black-and-white and grain added in Photoshop (click to enlarge).

Sometimes one finds oneself choosing a spot simply for the fact that you can expect the dawn light to be particularly good there. This row of houses on the Rio San Pietro in the Castello district is a case in point. It faces east, into the rising sun, and on the other side of the canal is an open area so that the houses are fully illuminated even when the sun is still very low.

Rio San Pietro
Rio San Pietro. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Fuji Fujinon-W 125mm lens, Horseman 6x12cm rollfilm back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

Rio Sant’Anna is a canal that once ran all the way from Rio San Pietro back down to the Basino. During the period of Napoleonic rule, the lower part of the canal was filled in to form what is now called the Via Garibaldi, and an adjacent canal was filled in to form the public gardens, a name familiar to many tourists due to the nearby “Giardini” vaporetto stop (the “Giardini Biennale” stop is a bit further down). Right at the point where the Rio Sant’Anna ends and the Via Garibaldi begins, a greengrocer’s boat is permanently moored. I determined that I would take a photograph of it in the pre-dawn light, with the tripod placed on an elevated point on a small bridge, looking back down the Via Garibaldi where, in the distance and illuminated by the dawn, you can see the church of Santa Maria della Salute at the entrance of the Grand Canal. This was a challenging photograph in several respects. Large format cameras do not generally have built-in light meters or other electronics; everything is manual. With slow (ISO 50) film, a narrow aperture to give maximum depth of focus, and very low levels of light, my hand-held light meter suggested an exposure of about 30 minutes. To that I added another 15 minutes to compensate for what is called “reciprocity failure” where the sensitivity of film decreases with extended exposure times. However I then had to take into account the fact that while the exposure was happening, everything would be getting brighter as sunrise approached. So to accommodate that I mentally subtracted 10 minutes again. Not an exact science.

About halfway through the exposure, the damn greengrocer had the nerve to climb onto his boat to rearrange some fruit. This set the boat rocking and ripples going on the canal. As soon as I realised what was happening I closed the shutter and paused the timer on my watch. That avoided some of the worst effects, but the mirror-stillness of the water was lost, and the front of the greengrocer’s boat is a bit blurred from movement. The boat in the foreground became very blurred, but I didn’t really mind that as it wasn’t a key element of the composition. The greengrocer got back on dry land, and eventually the movement of the boat subsided to the point where I felt I could reopen the shutter and restart the timer. The total time to take the photograph ended up being around 50 minutes, and in addition to the increasing light, more and more early risers were appearing in Via Garibaldi on their way to work. This didn’t affect the photograph too badly, as due to the very long exposure they tended not to register on the image. A few people paused to chat long enough to show up as “ghosts”, which you can see if you zoom in on the photograph. (This by the way, is why many early 19th-Century photographs show apparently deserted scenes. It wasn’t that there was nobody there, but that people didn’t stay still long enough to be captured on the very slow photographic emulsions of the day.)

Rio Sant'Anna Greengrocer
Greengrocer’s boat in Rio Sant’Anna. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Nikon Nikkor-W 150mm lens, 4×5 inch sheet film back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

I was pretty chilly when I finally finished, but fortunately there is a bakery just on the right in the photograph, where I was able to buy some warm fresh pastries before heading back to our accommodation.

I will finish with three iconic views of the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute (Our Lady of Health). This was a relatively late addition to the Venice skyline, being commissioned in 1631 as an act of public thanksgiving for the end of a particularly deadly outbreak of the plague. The first photograph was taken at water level, at the end of one of the little lanes that run down to the Grand Canal. It was on a cloudy morning when, during the brief moments when the sun broke through, the clouds turned red. The second was taken from the Accademia Bridge (again, I had to interrupt the exposure a few times, this time when joggers came bouncing over the bridge behind me, shaking the tripod). You can tell that the second picture was taken in high summer, because the sun is further north (and out of the picture on the left, illuminating the houses on the right of the Grand Canal). In the first photograph, taken in autumn, the sun is further south and rising behind the church, making the buildings into silhouettes.

Santa Maria della Salute
The Grand Canal and Santa Maria della Salute in autumn. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Rodenstock Sironar-N 180mm lens, 4×5 inch sheet film back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).
Santa Maria della Salute
Grand Canal and Santa Maria della Salute in summer. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Nikon Nikkor-W 150mm lens, 4×5 inch sheet film back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

The third picture of Santa Maria della Salute is from near the San Marco (Giardinetti) vaporetto stop, with the morning light illuminating the front of the building, this time in spring.

Santa Maria della Salute
The Grand Canal and Santa Maria della Salute. Horseman 45FA large format camera, Nikon Nikkor-W 150mm lens, 4×5 inch sheet film back, Fujichrome Velvia 50 film (click to enlarge).

Evening is another special time for photography. I will do another post of evening photographs in due course.

Edit: here it is.